Nicolas Belfrage | Yellow-straw color. Slightly pongy on the nose; cheesy, not inviting. Cheesy character again on the palate, not entirely pleasant. Otherwise, nicely balanced fruit and structure. | 84

Bruno Besa | Pale straw-yellow. Intense, mineral, floral nose, with mature yellow fruits, sage, and sea salt. Elegant, yellow-plum palate, with a lively character. Long and intense on the finish. | 90

Andrew Jefford | Bright, steely green-gold. The faintest touch of reduction, then plenty of sappy, planty, spring-leaf fresh scent, and something “stony” too—almost a Chablis-like percussion to this. Not at all the sweet-fruit register of most of the others. Attractive (despite the reductive side) and sommelier-arousing. On the palate, the same complex is at play. That seeming-reductive note (though might it be some kind of terroir effect?) is a bit disconcerting, and I couldn’t give it a top score for that reason. However, this is a very good wine, with some otherness beyond fruit to it, and all the better for that. It has vinous wealth and milky depths, colored by quiet fruit perfumes and gently positioned by soft acidity. I’d love to spend time with a bottle. | 89