Bruno Besa | Golden to straw. A touch closed on the nose, with a slightly rustic character, yet also mature and generous, with cooked apples, orange and lermon peel, and hints of nuts and aromatic herbs. A firm, clean palate, if a little overripe. | 90

Andrew Jefford | Pale, bright lemon-gold. Earthy, with some cardboardy notes; perhaps it’s the variety, but I am struggling to see much aromatic charm here. Firm and structured, but those dry cardboard notes are in evidence throughout on the palate and vitiate what in other respects is a deep and serious wine. Let’s look at another bottle. The second bottle also seems to have this character, alas. | 78

Michael Palij | Very lean, even skeletal nose, with yogurt, apple, apricot, nectarine, and cooked apple suggesting a finely etched version of Timorasso borrowing from the very best in the region. The finish carries with it weight but here allied to the grape’s natural aquiline features. Difficult to deny this wine’s charms. | 91