MARSANNAY
CHÂTEAU DE MARSANNAY
Sylvain Pabiot, the technical director here, highlighted the importance of leaf- and fruit-thinning in July. He was reluctant to plow in the grasses, which were growing strongly in the vineyards, given the onset of botrytis, and opted instead for mowing. He observed more rain in the south of the Côte de Nuits. When temperatures soared at the end of August, he recorded that potential alcohol levels were rising at the rate of 2.5% per week, so he arranged for 100 pickers to start harvesting on September 9—a week earlier than anticipated. As a result, actual alcohol levels averaged “only” 13.5%. Sylvain also moderated punch-down, as extraction was easy, and despite yields exceeding 45hl–ha, the mouthfeel of the wines is fleshy and well-structured.
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Champeaux
Related
Bright and vivacious, with splashing red fruit. I like the zesty finish and the lively character to this Gevrey. 2028–35. 92–93
Echézeaux Grand Cru
Ripples elegantly. Fine-grained tannins, precise and quite delicate, but intense. Fresh, pure, and persistent on the finish. 2028–40. 96
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DOMAINE BRUNO CLAIR
Arthur Clair joined the family domaine in 2017 and is now in charge of the cellar and winemaking, while Edouard works more in the vineyard. I tasted with Arthur this year.
“Almost a perfect season,” he told me. “The only difficulty was the hot September, but it was not as hot in August as in 2020 or 2022. And there was less disease. Edouard did a good job debudding and then we did a green-harvest. We picked at between 12.5 and 13% ABV. I was more worried about the acidity, but the whole bunches brought freshness.
“The color and concentration came easily during the 12 to 14 days of fermentation, with eight or nine pigeages in total, two a day, then pumping-over, just to wet the cap, and one punch-down at the end to release sugar from the whole bunches. Because of our old vines, we do not have to extract too much. But nor was it a light extraction as in 2020, which was very concentrated.”
The proportion of whole-bunch averaged around 50%: “Much like 2022. Only when the pH was high did I use less. We do not want to change the style of the terroir, so rarely use more than about 50%. The tannins are very silky and showing good evolution in barrel.”
Reds were settled in tank for between nine and 14 days before barreling down. Arthur stopped racking during élevage from the 2019 vintage onward. “I want to keep the freshness and the CO2 from the MLF. And I can add less sulfur. A hint of reduction can lift the wine. This is my goal for aging the wine.”
Arthur uses some 600-liter barrels and 1,500-liter foudres for Marsannay. “It is easier of course! But also I like the lower contact with oak in the foudres. Marsannay cannot absorb as much oak as Gevrey, for example.”
Bruno Clair himself finds 2023 a little like 2009 but with more depth, since the domaine had a larger crop in the earlier vintage, while 2023 is a more normal yield. In terms of balance, he thinks 2023 is quite close to 2019. Arthur believes the style to be somewhere between 2015 and 2017.
White
Marsannay La Charme aux Prêtres
From the top of the lieu-dit and marne ostrea. Straight, firm, and edgy palate. Lean and tight. I like the savory austerity and smoky, grapey bite. 2026–32. 87–88
Marsannay Les Longeroies
From a parcel on the top by the forest on rocky soil, oolite blanc, with some vines in the bottom section. Juicy and fruity to start. Perfumed, white peach and litchee on the nose, then on the palate is has a blend of fruity and savory notes, sweetness and smooth stone. 2026–30. 86
Marsannay Vaudenelles
From poor white soil on the hillside at about 325m (1,070ft). Recently planted to some Chardonnay and Aligoté, but there are also some older Chardonnay vines. Ripe and rich on aroma and strike, but straight and focused to finish. 2026–28. 85
Morey-St-Denis En La Rue de Vergy
Plentiful ripe fruit upfront, then cracks into a pretty severe palate, taut and lean and edgy, with a biting finish. 2025–28. 89–90
Red
Marsannay La Charme aux Prêtres
Limestone with more complex clays. Ripe strawberry fruit. Sweet depth and a generous mid-palate but it slides into a cool, graphite note to finish. 2026–30. 87
Marsannay Les Grasses-Têtes
Rock heads protrude through the clay. The richest and most tannic lieu-dit, partly because of the small berries due to virus, but not as burly as usual this year. Dark-berry fruit aroma and plentiful blackcurrant fruit on the palate. Juicy and compact. Plentiful tannins, but only lightly grippy. A good bitterness and herbal crunch give it a lively finish. 2026–32. 88
Marsannay Les Longeroies
Five parcels. Some limestone at the top, which has old vines planted in the 1920s, while red clay at the bottom gives the density. A good representation of the terroir. Gorgeous concentration of ripe red fruits on the nose. Succulent and dense on the strike. Quite punchy, with lightly bitter notes, a twist of anise and a touch of licorice to finish. “Not dark but generous in terms of fruit,” says Arthur. 2026–30. 88
Marsannay Vaudenelles
Some of this is aged in 600-liter barrels. Red-fruit aroma. Juicy, and there’s a lively energy to this crunchy wine, which has a slight snap to the finish. 2026–28. 86
Morey-St-Denis En La Rue de Vergy
A sweet and spicy aroma, but there’s good tension on the straight, piquant, finely textured, tart, and bright palate, which carries through to a sweet and saline finish. 2026–35. 90
Chambolle-Musigny Les Véroilles
Very pretty Chambolle. High-toned floral and redcurrant aroma. A slim and pure wine, dancing, light, straight, swift, and nicely snappy. I love it. 2026–33. 90
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Charmes
Red-cherry and strawberry-jam aroma. Quite ripe, just a touch jammy, maybe. Supple texture, but the whole-bunch really brings freshness and minty notes to the palate. A wine of two halves. 2027–37. 92
Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
From a parcel running from the top to the bottom; 75% red soil, on the Morey side. A dark and spicy aroma. On the nose and palate, an iron note—fresh earth and blood. Deep richness of tannins, velvety, yet there’s grip. A cool and persistent finish. The earthiest of the Bonnes Mares I tried this vintage. 2028–40. 96
Gevrey-Chambertin
Silky, even, and content. Smooth red fruit. All in place and nicely done. Well-balanced, if not exciting. 2026–30. 87
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Cazetiers
An intense and exuberant aroma and an enthusiastic splash on the attack. Sweet redcurrant fruit. Very accessible. Always a high pH, so it’s not acidity but sapidity that carries this wine. The tannins are fine and chalky, and the finish is engagingly austere and persistent. Lovely and long. 2028–40. 95–96
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos de Fonteny (Monopole)
Very small berries, because some of the vines have a virus, and the rows are oriented east-west. Filigree Gevrey. Delicacy and refinement. Intense, pure, and lucid wine. Shimmers on the finish. I love this style. 2027–37. 95
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos St-Jacques
An aromatic petal aroma floats into such a perfumed palate, sweet and fine and satin-textured. There is a real sweetness to this Clos St-Jacques, but it’s entwined with freshness. 2028–40. 95
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Beautifully aromatic. This gusts into a sumptuous and succulent palate, full but not heavy, retaining an airy and light feel. Gauzy texture. There is a delicacy that carries all the way through to a delightfully fragrant finish. “I am very proud of this,” says Arthur. And so he should be. Among the finest wines I tasted this vintage. “It is exactly what I want from Clos de Bèze—this expression and the silky tannins.” 2028–40. 98–99
Vosne-Romanée Champs Perdrix
So juicy and intense, with ripe but vibrant acidity. Prancing and energetic, with a lively finish. A tip-top village wine. 2026–35. 91
Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru La Dominode
From 100-year-old vines on this northeast-facing slope, which is quite steep, with clay and some sand in the soil. Lovely depth and concentration. Smooth, rich, dense, and compact. Sweet fruit, deep, velvety tannins, and a fresh finish. Top-notch Savigny. 2027–34. 92
DOMAINE JEAN FOURNIER
The domaine’s wines are certified organic. There is some foulage for the whites, but not the Aligoté. Whites are matured in 600-liter Stockinger barrels, before a second winter in tank. For the reds, there was more whole-bunch in 2023 than in 2022. The red lieux-dits mature in pièces for 18 months.
White
Aligoté Champ Forey
Ripe Aligoté with a citrus aroma. Light apricot and floral notes to the palate, with a touch of salt on the end. 2026–28. 83
Marsannay Clos-du-Roy
From the top section near Longeroies. Pineapple aroma and a ripe palate. Ripe, candied-lemon fruit and sweet salinity to finish. A touch of residual sugar when I tasted, but this is now in tank and will tick over during the winter. 2026–30. 86
Marsannay Cuvée Saint Urbain
A blend of 12 parcels, includes some young Clos du Roy and Longeroies. Ripe, white-peach aroma, with pretty floral notes. Smooth and rounded, citrus fruit and glossy minerals entwining on the finish. 2026–30. 85
Rosé
Marsannay Rosé
Grapes go into the press for one night in the air-conditioned winery before being pressed the following morning. The wine will age in barrel (all old oak) for 15 months. An orange-peel aroma, with pink peppercorn and ripe red currant fruit. Nicely rounded, with a soft and silky texture. There is substance mid-palate though, before the rose-petal finish. 2026–30. 86
Red
Bourgogne
A blend of parcels below the village (which, incidentally, are all above the R74). Bottled at the end of August 2024. Bright red fruit. Supple upfront, super-juicy and vibrant. Light-footed and really rather zesty. A whiff of herbs, although this has only a smidgen of whole-bunch. A slight twang at the end. An appealing Bourgogne indeed. 2025–28. 83
Marsannay Cuvée Saint Urbain
Forest fruit on the nose. A super-juicy splash on the palate. Lively and lightly crunchy, with a bright and rather joyful palate. 2026–30. 85–86
Marsannay Clos-du-Roy
Around 50% whole-bunch. Aged in 600-liter and 228-liter barrels, 25% new. An upright blackcurrant aroma. Silky tannic sweep on the palate. The crackle of fine black chocolate, for this has a snap and lively freshness. Good tension and a smoky chalky note. Recently racked and showing very well. 2026–32. 87–88
Marsannay Es Chezots
From a climat up in the combe, so this has the cold air, despite the warmer exposition. It has muscularity and punch, good density and a burl grip. Much more savory. 2026–35. 87–88
Marsannay Longeroies
Rich, dark red-cherry aroma and succulent fruit. Fuller body and a touch of licorice to finish. 87. 2026–32
FIXIN
DOMAINE BERTHAUT-GERBET
Amalie Berthaut makes fruit-forward Fixin with soft tannin, debunking the stereotype of robust wines from this village. This is her tenth vintage. Super-juicy wines with fine textures in 2023.
“I used very little whole-bunch—a question of space, because we didn’t have enough tanks. So, 50% stems only on the small cuvées like Echézeaux or Gevrey Premier Cru.” A cold-soak at around 12ºC (54ºF), which she mentions was difficult because of the heat during harvest, then only pump-over at the beginning, and pigeage at the end, of the fermentation. Vatting lasts between two and three weeks, depending on the cuvée and the length of the cold-soak. She chaptalized a few cuvées by 0.5% ABV, explaining that she prefers to pick early rather than to pick later and acidify.
She describes the vintage as “easy, with good balance. It was very warm during the summer, but made very fresh wines. I don’t like to compare, but I would say it’s maybe quite like 2017.”
In the recent reshuffle, she lost some leased vineyards—Gevrey Clos des Chezeaux and premier cru Cazetiers—which have been lassoed into Charles van Canneyt’s new venture.
Fixin En Combe Roy
This village lieu-dit is vinified in concrete tanks and some is then aged in barrel, of which 10% are new oak. This is the blend that stays in foudre for two months before bottling. Expressive blackberry-fruit aroma and a juicy, black-fruit palate. Very accessible, smooth, and easy tannin, with a hint of kirsch and spice to finish. Modest intensity, but very pleasant. 2025–28. 83–84
Fixin Premier Cru Les Arvelets
There is more substance to the premier cru, which has red-cherry fruit, lightly textured, crunchy tannins, and plenty of freshness. Joyful, yummy Fixin. 2026–30. 86
Vosne-Romanée
From two parcels—Aux Réas and Au Dessus de la Rivière—vinified separately and blended after racking. Plenty of juicy fruit on the attack. Splashy, rich fruit, both red and black, and somewhat spicy. There’s snap to the tannins, which are ripe but crisp, and a touch of bitter chocolate to finish. Attractive. 2026–32. 88
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Petits Monts
Silky glide into the palate. Ripe blueberry fruit, with a ripple of freshness and a crisp, taffeta texture to the slightly spicy, minty finish. A refined and delicate Vosne. 2027–35. 93–94
2023 Burgundy: Abundant variability
2023 Burgundy: A guide to the villages and vineyards
2023 Burgundy: Chablis with a sunny disposition
2023 Burgundy: Chablis tasting notes
