2023 Chablis, domaine by domaine
2023 Burgundy: Abundant variability
2023 Burgundy: A guide to the villages and vineyards
2023 Burgundy: Chablis with a sunny disposition
DOMAINE BESSIN-TREMBLAY (LA CHAPELLE-VAUPELTEIGNE)
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From 2004, I used to visit Jean-Claude Bessin to taste in his office in the center of Chablis. He produced a small range of trim and precise Chablis, but somehow I had not made it out to the small village of Chapelle-Vaupelteigne. In June 2023, the wines were going though malolactic, but in June 2024, I was in luck. The 12ha (30-acre) domaine is not certified biodynamic, but the family has been practicing biodynamics for six years. Jean-Claude Bessin never uses herbicides and uses only compost and organic matter for feeding the soil. It was Romain Bessin, after leaving his life as a jazz drummer in Paris to join his father, who introduced biodynamics. I met with Antoine, who was an industrial pharmacist, directing a research team and specializing in the chemistry of natural products and green biotech. “Our parents pushed us to do things,” Antoine told me. “My father was an architect and my mother a medical advisor.” The brothers are the sixth generation of growers, the vines coming through their mother’s side. Antoine’s grandfather planted Valmur in the 1950s. His grandparents lived for half their time in Paris, where they had a haberdashery selling to the trade, “but they came regularly to direct the planting and harvesting from the ’50s to the ’90s. My parents took over in 1989.”
The first parcel the family purchased (in 1880) was Fourchaume. In a good year, they make two different cuvées. It was replanted in the 1940s, with some new planting in the 2000s. The parcel runs from the top to the bottom of the slope—“the historic part”—with the section used for La Pièce au Count half way up. “It is concave here and gets sun most of the day, especially in the afternoon.” They start the harvest here. Yields are never high: “50–55hl/ha in 2023, and that’s a good year. In 2022, it was between 40 and 45hl/ha. Our grapes have concentration. No dilution of sugar, acid, or nitrogen.” All is handpicked. “The challenge is harvesting 12ha in less than ten days, preferably eight.” In 2023, they harvested from September 11 over nine days with 30 harvesters. “We reached a good balance of acidity and intensity in 2023. It is aromatic. Quite representative of what we do. Maybe like 2017. But that’s just an early impression.”
Chablis
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100% stainless steel. Rather refined. Good intensity, quite flinty, pure and racy. Neat and focused. Slight fennel and herbal notes, with crisp acidity. From ten parcels around Chapelle-Vaupelteigne, one replanted five years ago: “A rocky and isolated parcel, and we were not sure about the identity of this terroir, or the plant material, as it was planted by grandfather. But now we can see it has very flinty notes.” 2025–32. 86
Chablis Premier Cru Forêt
Lime blossom, delicate and pure. This wafts in an airy fashion over the mid-palate, sea-breezy bight, before focusing on the finish, with a pure and light ozone line. I prefer this to the Montmains. 25% in ten-year-old barrels. “It gets more and more floral—in ten years it becomes very floral,” says Romain. 2026–35. 88
Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume
25% old oak for this main cuvée of Fourchaumes, which has a spicy aroma, showing notes of powdered coriander, before swooping into a rounded palate, succulent and ample. For Fourchaume, it has lively freshness and some elegance. Warm notes of caramelized orange zest and cumin seed, and the persistent finish has a salty-miso feel. It has energy. 2027–35. 89–90
Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume La Pièce au Comte
A mid-slope 0.4ha (1-acre) parcel of the oldest vines (around 75–80 years. 30% oak, some in 600l. Compact and layered. More contained than the previous cuvée, but also more succulent. Layered with dark, slate-like minerality and sweet, almost honeyed, freshness. Ripe and salty. A soft, graphite brushstroke to finish. 2028–38. 89–90
Chablis Premier Cru Montmains
The domaine has parcels in Montmains and Forêt on the border of each climat, although at different levels on the slope and with different soil composition. “My father vinified them together, but once we tried them separately, we noticed a brut, marine expression in Montmains, while Forêt is more elegant and floral.” 20–25% is matured in ten-year-old barrels. In lesser vintages such as 2021, the two parcels are blended, but in 2022 and ’23 they are kept separate. Earthy and savory, this is somewhat dense and robust, with an almond, apricot-kernel bitterness, stony notes, and some grip. 2026–35. 87–88
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
Aged 40% in 600-liter older oak. Oyster-shell aroma. Ozone notes. Breadth and austerity. An expansive wine with savory grip. Persistent. A vital and bright vibration to this Valmur. Dark and light. “This is on the right side looking up the valley, with sun from 2pm. I am happy with this part, as it keeps the freshness longer. The slower ripening helps to develop more complexity, but the downside is that it takes time to evolve in bottle.” 2028–40. 93–94
DOMAINE JEAN-MARC BROCARD (PRÉHY)
A 200ha (500-acre) domaine, with two thirds managed organically. All the vineyards used for Julian’s own label (below) have been managed biodynamically since 1997 and were certified by Demeter in 2004. Higher canopies and cover crops are used, the latter rolled in May so as not to compete with the vines. There is hand-picking for all but the regional and some village parcels. Everything goes through spontaneous fermentation. “2023 is more aromatic than 2022, maybe with less acidity,” says Julian Brocard. “Butteaux is already correct and showing its style, and we expect the others will follow.”
Petit Chablis Les Juenes Terres
Planted from the 1970s. Kimmeridgian soil in front of the winery. 40,000 bottles. Two or three bottlings. Ripe but fresh. More savory than fruity. Nicely balanced. Forward and attractive. 2025–27. 82
Chablis Sainte Claire
The main village cuvée made from east-facing slopes around Préhy, including Pargues; 40ha (100 acres), planted in the 1970s and ’80s. Good quality, especially given that this is a very large cuvée of 300,000 bottles. Rich, generous, and juicy, underscored with salinity and some minerality to finish. 2025–28. 85
Chablis Vieilles Vignes de Sainte Claire
A 3ha (7.5-acre) parcel next to Pargues called Malantes, which was planted in the 1950s and ’60s by Jean-Marc Brocard. Super-concentrated, seductive, and glossy. “Very Kimmeridgian soil,” says Julien. The minerality is encased in fruity richness on the finish. 2025–28. 85
Chablis Premier Cru Butteaux
From a high parcel of this climat, with thin (30cm [12-inch]) topsoil. Aged in Stockinger foudres. Sapid and bright. Silex notes. Buzzing with tension, it pushes into a lively finish. 2026–32. 88
Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre
Savory and pithy. Good intensity and grip. Punchy and powerful, from Chapelots, showing plenty of typicité. 2026–33. 89–90
Chablis Premier Cru Vau de Vey
The domaine finished the harvest here. Steep and east-facing. An aromatic bomb. Spicy and rounded for this climat, which is usually edgy and straight. 2026–30. 86
DOMAINE JULIEN BROCARD (PRÉHY)
A range of seven biodynamic wines, all aged in 50hl foudres from coopers Rousseau, Taransaud, and Stockinger. Good quality across the range, with notable energy.
Petit Chablis Les Plantes
A Préhy parcel, next to the winery; 25-year-old vines. Made in Rousseau foudres. Glassy-silky and juicy. A vibrant wine. Piquant on the finish. It’s lively and slightly salty. Very good Petit Chablis. 2025–30. 83
Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Léchet
From three lieux-dits, south-facing, picked on September 16/17, as it is important to catch this at the beginning of the harvest. It’s glossy, with ripe lemon cut and a slice of citrusy acidity. A sweet and concentrated feel. Races on the finish. One of the best Côte de Léchet I tasted in 2023. 2026–34. 88
Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre
From a southwest-facing parcel at the top of Montée de Tonnerre. This was the last parcel to be converted to biodymanics. Shy on the front palate, but I like the assertive, keen, and vibrant finish. Fizzles brightly at the end. A lighter representation of this climat than the Jean-Marc Brocard version, but very energetic. 2026–34+. 89–90
Chablis Premier Cru Vau de Vey
A blossom aroma, white flowers, and dewy fresh. The palate is bright, keen, and straight, with a lively, wire-tight finish. Harvested a couple of days earlier than the parcel under the Jean-Marc Brocard range: much less spicy and more typical. Tip-top. 2026–34. 88
Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
A purring, silky Preuses from the plateau. Smooth intensity gliding into a shimmering, bright, elegant, and vital finish. I like the energy. One of the last parcels to be converted to biodymanics, about 12 years ago. 2027–38. 92–93
DOMAINE SAMUEL SIMON (CHABLIS)
Samuel Billaud (the sixth generation of grape growers, dating back to 1815) remarks, “2023 is a large harvest. We recall 2018. We cut everything by hand, and it was too hot before September 11 to start. Yields were 65hl/ha for premiers crus and 45hl/ha for grands crus. Samuel is not certified organic and was able to use a systemic spray at the key moment, around flowering.
Samuel uses cylindrical vessels for the cold and mineral terroirs, for a greater surface of lees to wine, to enrich them; and “square tanks, with a lower ratio of surface to lees, to make wine from richer climats more reserved and strict.” He is moving to use some glass globes in 2024.
“We have fruit and good minerality in 2023—not like 2022 or 2020 or 2017. It is more like 2015 and 2018. A concentrated, solar vintage. A vintage to drink while you are waiting for the 2022 and the 2020.” For aging capacity, he recalls a bottle of 1982 that he tasted recently: “A large vintage made by my grandfather. It was superb—so, why not age the 2023?”
Bourgogne
Mâcon and Auxerre. 13 months lees in stainless steel and no oak. A lovely Bourgogne. Rich and generous, spicy and fresh and salty to finish. Jolly good. 2024–27. 80
Petit Chablis
Sur Les Clos is declared on the back label. “My father planted it in 1976.” Straight as a die and taut. I like the hard minerals. It has austerity. 2025–28. 83
Chablis Les Grands Terroirs
From three parcels: Les Pargues—“a good place, with so much minerality”—Le Bas de Chapelot, and a bit below Vaillons. 100,000 bottles (usually 80,000). It’s peachy, rich yet pure, for the freshness is there, but finally spicy. Overall, very rich and fruity. 2025–30. 85
Chablis Premier Cru Les Forneaux
From 30-year-old vines. Vinified in stainless steel. “I buy the fruit, only organic. It is a warm place, but the soil is cool.” Actually, the parcels have different exposures and vine age. Fennel aroma and a straight, anise palate. Attractive, amertume notes. Touched with the richness of the vintage, but super-straight and channeled. More interesting than the Vaillons. 2027–34. 87
Chablis Premier Cru Séchet Vieilles Vignes
From a 0.6ha (1.5-acre) parcel planted by Samuel’s great-grandmother with a massal selection in the 1920s. In the ’40s, his grandfather was selling barrels of wine to Paris merchants, but then in 1954 he started bottling and sending to the US. “Only stainless steel, to respect the mineral part of Vaillons. It’s on 161-49, so no problem with the rootstock. I harvest early, as there is so much concentration, and you need to watch the ripeness. I may do it in a glass globe next year.” It is very concentrated and rich on the attack, then squeezed into a tube mid-palate, and at the end, austere, strict, and salty. It’s direct. I like the strength to this wine. Very focused. Doesn’t really taste like Vaillons. 2027–38. 89
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons Vieilles Vignes
“We have clay and small stones here, more clay than in Séchet.” From 60-year-old vines in the eponymous lieu-dit. Stainless-steel aging, bottled after 15 months. Rounded, with plenty of yellow peach up-front. Certainly ripe and juicy, but goodness, it’s nicely fresh and energetic to finish. 2026–32+. 86–87
DANIEL DAMPT (CHABLIS)
The Dampt brothers, Vincent and Sébastien, have bought new temperature-controlled tanks to use for débourbage in 2024 following their experience in 2022 and 2023. September was very hot, and they had to wait until September 11 to start harvest (still quite early), as they had no means to cool the juice.
“We have decided to bottle early to keep the freshness,” said Vincent. So, they started bottling in March 2024 for Petit Chablis and Chablis, and by the time I visited in June, Beauroy and Fourchaumes were also in bottle. Vincent makes a comparison with 2006, 2013, and 2003, when, he says, “early bottling was beneficial—longer aging and you start to lose the fruit, and the body of the wine will continue to increase. We don’t want it on the heavy side.”
The Dampt bothers prefer to use cultured yeast. Sébastien Dampt explains, “We don’t want a problem with residual sugar, especially when there is a higher pH. We never leave the tank for too long. We did not keep too many lees after the first racking, in order to preserve the freshness.”
The three domaines now mostly use Diam 3 to Diam 5 closures, but Diam 10 for Beauroy. Free SO2 is now 30ppm; previously, they used 40ppm, but Diam has allowed them to reduce the level. In 2022 and 2023, they increased the CO2 to 1,000mg/l: “A natural way to increase the freshness,” says Vincent.
Petit Chablis
From 6ha (15 acres) in Fleys on Portlandian soil, a vineyard that is divided between the three domaines. Some of the vines are young (from 2006). “Flat and rocky,” says Vincent. Lemon zesty and bright. Straight, lively, and crisp. Tingles. Spot-on Petit Chablis. 2024–26. 82–83
Chablis
A blend of four climats, 80% from around Milly and some on the village side of Vau de Vey. This is rich yet fresh. Candied-citrus notes, with a fresh sherbet fizzle which balances it nicely. Bottled from March 2024, but his will have several different bottlings in order to maintain freshness. 2025–29. 84–85
Chablis Premier Cru Beauroy
“The true Beauroy—the whole climat is between 10 and 12 hectares [25–30 acres].” The Dampts have 0.45ha (1 acre), from which Vincent says the style of wine is different from that from the rest from Troêsmes and Côte de Savant: “White clay, with nothing in common with the section by the lake. It’s a small area and very sunny, so you must start the harvest here.” Spicy aroma to a rounded and generous palate. Richly glossy texture, almost caramel notes, but salted caramel. I have included this, for among the Beauroy I tasted, I liked it for its salty finish. “Always the lowest acidity. It is a big challenge waiting for us in Chablis—the problem of acidity and freshness,” adds Vincent. 2025–28. 85
Chablis Premier Cru Les Lys
From an old, north-facing block planted in 1958/59. Upright aroma. Fine and pure, lime-like fruit. Vivacious, racy, and bright. A touch of anise and savory-salty minerality. Delicate and intense. Love it. 2026–35. 88
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
From three climats: 50% Les Lys, 25% Séchet (rocky), and 25% Chatains between the two. Stylish: cool grip and savory tension. Straighter than many a Vaillons because of the particular parcels. Chalky, tight, and attractively dry to finish. 2027–35. 87–88
VINCENT DAMPT (CHABLIS)
Vincent Dampt compares 2023 with 2018, “although the yields were a bit too high in 2018.”
Chablis
Largely from Voye on the opposite slope from Côte de Léchet, below Les Lys, with a slight northerly incline. Very juicy, with a stony quality, attractive grip, and a cool, sappy, lightly austere finish. This is the style of Chablis you hope to find in a warm vintage, but it can prove elusive. 2025–28. 85
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
From 2005 and 2013 plantings. Floral, elderflower notes, such a pretty, gliding, and pure Vaillons. It is delicate, with a light salinity on the finish. Not deep or intense, but very stylish and appealing. 2026–30. 86
DOMAINE SÉBASTIEN DAMPT (CHABLIS)
“The 2023 is a good vintage to enjoy now, but with good potential for aging as well. 2022 was also very fruity but now, after some months in bottle, it is finding more freshness.”
All of the wines are made in stainless steel, except one part of Les Beugnons (a lieu-dit in Vaillons) made in concrete egg. The main Vaillons cuvée is also from Beugnons, but made in stainless steel. Last year I preferred the wine from stainless steel, which felt more austere, but this year the wine from the concrete egg felt fresher and more interesting. The egg gives a light micro-oxygenation and keeps the lees in suspension. Sébastien has used Diam since 2014.
Petit Chablis
Previously, Sébastien made two cuvées from two different parcels, but with the low yields in 2021, he blended them and liked the result. Two thirds is from a young-vine parcel in Flyes and one third is from the plateau in Milly, planted in 2011, on 41B rootstock, which works well on limestone soil and the vines bud later, which, with late frosts, is a good thing. Rather lower vigor than the alternative rootstock, Fercal. A floral aroma, delicate and crisp. Pirouettes. Shimmering and lucid. Very pretty. 2025–29. 82–83
Chablis
From seven parcels all around Milly but mostly from Vau de Vey. The average age of the vines is 40 years, and most were planted by Sébastien’s grandfather and great grandfather, so some are 60 years old. Both juicy and sappy. Plenty of concentration of fruit, with wet-stone minerality on the finish. 2024–30+. 86
Chablis Premier Cru Les Beugnons
This is the tenth vintage of this wine. Made in 16hl concrete eggs, which cost twice as much as the equivalent stainless-steel tanks, so Sébastien is not likely to invest in more. Production is around 2,100 bottles. There is certainly some vitality to this sapid wine from Vaillons, which has a welcome underscoring of chalky and silex notes and is attractively terse to finish. 2026–34. 87–88
DOMAINE VINCENT DAUVISSAT (CHABLIS)
Vincent Dauvissat seems to be the only person in Chablis, maybe in the whole of Burgundy, who says he has no problem finding pickers. He harvested from September 11 for ten days, and his yields averaged 70hl/ha. In the winery he doesn’t adapt to the vintage, nor does he like to speak about the winemaking, because “wine is cerebral.” He remarked on the lower acidity of the 2023 vintage, but said it was still adequate because it’s Chablis, adding that 2023 is a vintage with good balance, so can be kept a long time.
Petit Chablis
The vines come from a parcel above Les Clos on the plateau behind the wood. It was planted 35 years ago. Juicy fruit, with plenty of fresh minerality underscoring the fruit, and flinty on the finish. 2026–30. 83
Chablis Premier Cru Séchet
Silky and pure, with smooth, stony notes. Quite glossy this year. Warm fruit on the finish. Riper and rounder than usual. I miss the racy notes. 2026–32. 86
Chablis Premier Cru La Forêt
From some ten parcels across 3.5ha (8.5 acres) of La Forêt, the vines averaging between 60 and 70 years old. “Introverted wine,” says Vincent. “There is more clay, and because of the quality of the clay, this gives a more energetic wine with a deep taste.” The 2023 is elegant and lifted, with hints of thyme and lime-flower. Skates on the palate. Delicate and pure for Montmains. A lively wire of minerality on the finish. The standout premier cru at this domaine this vintage. 2026–35. 88–89
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
Dauvissat has 1.4ha (3.5 acres) of Vaillons in Chatains and Beugnons but finds there is not much difference in the terroir, so they are harvested together. Slight greengage on the nose. Ample wine, with more intensity, denser and juicer, than Séchet. 2026–32. 86–87
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
From three parcels, 1ha (2.47 acres) in total. A restrained Les Clos, unlike many examples from this grand cru climat that are instantly showier. This has layering but with tension and precision. 2028–35+. 92
Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
Smooth and generous, with a satin-rich texture, underscored by salinity. This slope is warm, and the concentration of fruit is there, but the mineral core is clearly evident, too. 2027–35. 92
DOMAINE WILLIAM FÈVRE (CHABLIS)
Following the acquisition by Saskia Rothchild for Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) in 2024 and subsequent investment, Didier Séguier is now working with an architect on the construction of the new cellar, which should be operational for the 2027 vintage. “A great opportunity to increase the quality and to be more precise in the cellar,” says Didier. 2023 is the first vintage here to have organic certification. The wines are aged in barrels from Bouchard Père & Fils (just 25–30%), which will continue despite the change in ownership. On average, the barrels are four or five years old. Didier compares 2023 with 2015 and 2006: “2006 was the richest vintage after 2023, but the freshness is greater in 2023.”
Chablis
From 38ha (94 acres) of vines averaging between 40 and 50 years old, with yields of 50–52hl/ha in 2023. One large parcel is between Montmains and Vaillons; others are below Les Lys and above Beauroy, and 18ha (44 acres) are in Chichée and Viviers “which has beautiful south-facing vines planted in 1972. A very good place now with climate change, as it has good freshness and minerality.” Only 25% is harvested by machine. Some 15% is vinified in barrel. Expressively perfumed. Attacks the palate with cumin spiciness, along with fennel and anise notes. Savory, bitter orange. I like the phenolic bite and freshness. What a good Chablis. Not too rich. 2025–29. 85
Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume
From eight plots across 3.6ha (9 acres) in Vaulorent, south to southwest-facing. Roughly half is bottled as Fourchaume, while the best barrels are bottled as Vaulorent. “A lot of marl for density, and oyster shell for freshness,” says Didier. It is rich and powerful, with a mineral intensity and freshness, but when compared with the “Vaulorent” selection (see below) it is rounder, softer, and friendlier; fruitier and more generous at the front of the palate and more accessible. 2027–35+. 89
Chablis Premier Cru Les Lys
Didier vinifies the fruit from 1ha (2.47 acres) of 50-year-old vines in Les Lys—part of Vaillons—separately, due to their cooler aspect. Upright, fresh, white rose petal—I love this bright, dewy aroma. There is tension, grip, and salinity. Piquant to finish. Top-notch. 2026–35. 88
Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre
Reserved, battened down. Low-key. Savory and strong. Salty and sapid to finish. It’s subdued but intense. And long. Not the dimension of a grand cru, but maybe edging toward it in length. 2028–25+. 90
Chablis Premier Cru Montmains
A blend from the three different lieux-dits. I asked Didier why he did not separate them into three different cuvées: “We have 130 parcels in Chablis, so we cannot do everything. We already have 15 different wines.” A shame, I think, but the blend is good. Didier says, “Butteaux is fresh and mineral. Forêt is for fruit and elegance. In Montmains, we have clay, so there is density and richness from here.” It is nicely balanced: freshness with earthiness. Not fruity really, but certainly generous and succulent. On the finish, a silky, sweet, and saline note. Didier ends the harvest here, as the whole slope is late to ripen. 2026–35. 88
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
Mainly from Vaillons itself, which is always early to ripen, together with some other Vaillons lieux-dits that reach maturity two or three days later; ten parcels across 3.5ha (8.5 acres) in total. Alluring upfront: satin-rich citrus. Pithy, mineral freshness and ping to finish; savory, cold, and mineral right at the end. 2026–33. 87
Chablis Premier Cru Vaulorent
More reductive than the Fourchaume bottling. The barrel selection is made in May, at which point Didier composes the two different cuvées and returns them to barrel and tank. The Vaulorent is more refined, more intense, and possibly a bit longer on the finish. It’s really not typical Fourchaumes, in that it’s savory, mineral, and direct. 2028–35. 90
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros
Full and broad and rich, dense but not weighty. Muscular, but quite sleek. Lively and bright to finish. I liked it more than the Côte de Bouguerots this vintage. 2028–36. 91
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte de Bouguerots
From 2ha (5 acres), south-facing, on a 45-degree steep slope right by the river. Early maturity. Not much topsoil here. Immediately powerful, dense, and concentrated. It’s a hefty Chablis: weight and muscle. 2028–40. 90
Chablis Grand Cru Preuses
From 2.5ha (6 acres); one parcel (1ha [2.47 acres]) is next to Dauvissat’s on the southeast of the slope, while the other, on the southwest, gives more richness. “For me, one of the most elegant grands crus,” says Didier. It’s succulent, yet there is the tension and bite of cold minerality. Quite reserved in its youth. Delicate and straight and refined, with a touch of gold, but finely silky and salty to finish. 2028–40. 93
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
Super-intense and compact. Sappy and austere. Like sucking on stone. Power and reserve. There is the richness of 2023 vintage, a hint of a little sweetness, but contrasting with this there is a puckering, cold aspect to the finish. Practically shivering. Longer than Vaudésir. My favorite from this domaine in this vintage. 2028–40. 93–94
Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir
William Fèvre began the 2023 harvest with its Vaudésir; south-facing, on a 40-degree slope, it normally ripens very quickly. “Lot of rocks. A sunny exposure, but after five or six years, you see the minerality. So, it ages very well.” Right now, it is rich and ripe and exotic upfront, but behind the richness there is colder grip, and impressive intensity and purity to the length. 2028–38. 92–93
DOMAINE LAROCHE (CHABLIS)
Cellar master Stéphane Barras liked to inoculate with a Champagne yeast, “to bring higher acidity and lower alcohol, and it also required less addition of Nitrogen,” he explained. Some cuvées take a long time before they go through MLF. The premiers crus and all the grands crus were fermented in oak pièces (of 400 liters or 600 liters). Laroche keeps barrels about seven years, so about 14% is new oak. Blanchot was 10% aged in stainless steel, as there was no more space in wood. The domaine is fortunate to have large parcels of Vau de Vey (11ha [28 acres] of premier cru and another 30ha [75 acres] classified as village on the opposite side of the valley), as well as 4.3ha (10.5 acres) of Blanchots. “We have a magic opportunity to keep on making Chablis with the spirit of Chablis.”
Chablis Saint Martin
Some 400,000 bottles. This year, for the first time, Stéphane changed the blend to include 15–20% must from older vines, as he arrived at the blend by blind-tasting all the tanks. Delicate, floral aroma. Elderflower fruit on this lightly silky palate, which has a hit of fennel on the finish. Slight almond notes. Pretty. 2025–28. 80
Chablis Vieille Voye
From a fairly flat parcel below north-facing premier cru Les Lys. Ripe and fruity upfront, but it straightens into a more savory, mineral palate, with hints of anise. Miso-sweet to finish. 2025–28. 82
Chablis Premier Cru Beauroys
Mainly from the Côte de Serant part, where there is more clay, with a full-south exposure. To maintain the acidity and freshness it is crucial to catch the right moment for the harvest, as by the lake is a very warm place. Rich, orange-blossom and spice aroma. Full and generous onto the palate, and plump in the middle. A rather cuddly Chablis mid-palate, but actually there is freshness and minerality to finish. 2025–27. 85
Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Léchet
One parcel (0.3ha [0.74 acre]), with vines planted in 2006, is in the upper part at the mouth of the valley, where the soil is light, soft, and friable, with very little clay; it is among the first parcels they pick, to retain freshness. Another parcel, at the western end near the forest, is much more humid. A small production for Laroche, at 1,500 bottles. Aged in 600-liter or 400-liter barrels and some pièces. Bitter lemon fruit, with plenty of freshness on the straight and pithy palate. Piquant Léchet. 2025–30. 86
Chablis Premier Cru Les Montmains
Forty-year-old vines in a windy spot, with soil that has 30cm (12 inches) of brown clay over limestone. Some 40% is in stainless-steel tank (this had not finished the MLF when I tasted). Light and fresh and delicate. More floral than overly fruity. Quite delicate. A gentle, unassuming Montmains. 2025–29. 85–86
Chablis Premier Cru Vau de Vey
From an 11ha (27-acre) east-facing block in this narrow valley, planted in the 1970s. A restrained, upright aroma to a straight, clipped, savory, and rather stony palate, somewhat austere, with spiky, lemon-pith bite. I like this leaner style from a warm vintage. It’s not especially intense, but it is stylish. 2025–29. 85
Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots
This includes some fruit from younger vines (planted in 2013 and 2016), as the domaine is gradually replanting the vineyard. 20,000 bottles. Fresh, pure, and vibrant. Airy volume and generosity, with a light, silvery thread of minerality running through the palate, which carries to the elegant finish. 2027–35. 88
DOMAINE LONG-DEPAQUIT (CHABLIS)
Louis Gimonnet, originally from Champagne, has been making changes at Long-Depaquit, where the production will be certified organic for the 2024 vintage. All 52ha (acres) are now managed organically. The domaine has ten grands crus and 15 premiers crus, the former spending 16 months in barrel, the latter, ten. And Louis has moved to using more 500-liter barrels.
“In 2022 and 2021, I changed things. We are now pressing more gently. In 2023, we had the volume, so we did not press hard at all—not above 1.1–1.2 bar. I do not want to destroy the cells of the skin—so we had little by way of lees—only 2%, almost nothing. So, only very clean juice, as in 2022. I think the quality of the juice is better. The pH goes up at the end if you press harder, and I don’t want that.”
“The terroir is not in the skin, but in the high-quality juice that runs out of the berry naturally. When you have clean juice, you do not need to settle too much.” He allows 18 hours for the débourbage if the fruit comes in cold in the morning; 36 hours if the fruit comes in warmer in the afternoon.
The samples I tasted were pretty much the final blends. At the last stage, Louis may eliminate anything that is not up to snuff. The three different lieux-dits from Vaillons have distinct personalities; all are made in stainless steel, so the different terroirs of Les Lys, Vaillons, and Beugnons are clearly expressed.
Chablis
From 18 to 20 parcels across 27ha (66 acres), all fermented separately. A 150,000-bottle cuvée. Peachy aroma. Juicy, fruity, and splashing. It’s certainly generous. Nice piquancy to finish. 2025–28. 84
Chablis Premier Cru Les Beugnons
Soft, flowery, white-peach aroma. A touch of pineapple on the palate. Exotic. Quite fat. I prefer it in 2022. 2025–30. 86
Chablis Premier Cru Les Lys
The cooler north/northeast exposure of Vaillons. White clay. Three plots. Upright and floral, with a lime-like ping. It’s reserved, tight, and flinty. Somewhat reductive now. I like the bite and precision. It’s edgy and austere. Good length. 2026–32+. 87–88
Chablis Premier Cru Les Montmains
This is from less than 0.5ha (1.2 acres) of Forêt, at the top of the slope, below the plateau section. Upright, citrus aroma. A bit lactic, as it had a late MLF. It has a light, straight shape and weight. Delicate and silky, with slippery, wet-stone minerals to finish. A pretty Montmains. Refined. The oak (now 500-liter barrels) is very well managed this year. 2026–32. 87
Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaillons
A blend of four lieux-dits. A large part is from Les Epennottes, where Louis describes the soil as “thick and red, so when it rains here, it is very wet. The vines suffered in 2023 because the soil absorbed a lot of water, so we didn’t have high yields. It is easier for the roots to absorb water from marly soil, as the water is more available.” The cuvée also includes some fruit from Les Lys and Beugnons. Marzipan aroma, richer and nuttier than the other two lieu-dit cuvées from Vaillons—this is the fullest and sturdiest and the most compact. Good depth. The finish is mineral. This is the most complete, complex, and layered of the three wines from Vaillons, for sure, but Les Lys is the most stylish and appealing to me. 2026–32+. 87–88
Chablis Premier Cru Les Vaucoupins
From a 35–50-degree slope, with quite shallow topsoil (80cm [32 inches] at most) and a massal selection planted in the 1950s and ’60s. Tiny, concentrated berries. It usually yields only 35hl/ha, but in 2023, just 25hl/ha. Ripe-citrus, lemon-curd aroma, with a touch of spice, but the palate, after a warm attack, is grippy, with an undertow of cold minerals. It gets very austere and stony on the finish. Really stylish. “The reductive minerality and gunflint you expect in Chablis. You get the limestone at the back of the palate. This is the cuvée of which I will have most in my own cellar. I am amazed by this wine. Ripe but refined and mineral,” says Louis. 2027–35+. 90
Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots
“We have to harvest this at the end of the harvest, as one third of the vineyard is in shadow, and the berries need time to ripen.” A lemon aroma. Volume and generosity, rich and intense, but almost fluffy and airy. It wafts across the palate. It’s charming and approachable and sparkles. On the finish, the sliver of minerals is haunting. Delightful. 2027–36+. 92–93
Chablis Grand Cru Les Bougros Côte de Bouguerots
From the Côte de Bouguerots section that is more south-facing (not the bit that is more southwest-facing), on a 45-degree slope right by the river, where there is very little topsoil. A glossy texture, with a generous, slightly tropical palate, but the finish is very savory. Definitely full and concentrated, but also quite reserved and restrained for Bougros. 2028–38. 92
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
From three plots, about 60, 30, and 29 years old. Some 30% goes through 500-liter barrels, which you sense on the nose, but the oak is well-balanced on the palate. A more complete wine than the other grands crus from this domaine. Generous, layered, and intense. Complex. Breadth and intensity. 2029–40. 94
Chablis Grand Cru La Moutonne (Monopole)
La Moutonne is a 2.35ha (5.8-acre) plot, 95% in Vaudésir and 5% in Les Preuses, on the warm slope at the mouth of the Vaudésir valley. Quite exotic on the strike, this is concentrated and yet refined. Really focuses toward the end of the palate, where I like the vibrant minerality, which has a rich, miso-savory character. 2028–37. 93
DOMAINE LOUIS MICHEL (CHABLIS)
Guillaume Gicqueau-Michel comments on 2023: “A warm and very ripe vintage. Not high in acidity. Quite high in alcohol. A warm and powerful vintage, needing more time in the tank to refine. It is still under the effect of the vintage, and only now [June 2024] just showing the terroir. But we have concentration because of the mildew. We did not have high yields.” He says it is a divided vintage in stylistic terms, depending on whether the yields were higher or lower. He will delay bottling—the premiers and grands crus until June 2025 at the earliest. All the wines have the same vinification—in stainless steel, with spontaneous fermentation, temperature-controlled to not exceed 19ºC (66 ºF)—so it is a good domaine at which to see the terroir expression. No oak for aging. It is particularly interesting to compare Montmains from the three lieux-dits. The vines for the Butteaux Vignes Vignes are a little older, 65 years, compared with the 50 or so for the vines used for the eponymous Montmains cuvée. The difference, though, is more about the soil, which has marl and white clay mixed with Kimmeridgian limestone.
Petit Chablis
From the Envers de Valmur lieu-dit, but not on the label: “Valmur could be confusing.” It’s ripely fruity for a Petit Chablis. Juicy and then tight and stony on the finish. Quite low acidity, but the minerality is high. 2025–28. 82–83
Chablis
A ripe and glossy aroma and a palate with a rather glossy minerality, too. It’s super-seductive. Not very Chablisien really, but jolly nice. “Glossy will be the signature of the vintage, I think,” says Guillaume. 2025–32. 83–84
Chablis Premier Cru Butteaux
A 50-year-old massal selection for this fatter, richer wine, with its brioche aroma. Good concentration, with the structure to carry it. Colder stone to finish. It has some grip. Very good indeed. 2026–35. 88–89
Chablis Premier Cru Butteaux Vieilles Vignes
A massal selection, planted in 1955. Aniseed notes, deeper and toastier and darker. More exotic on the palate than the main cuvée which, for the moment, I prefer. Super-rich and viscous. When I tasted (June 24), it was still very vintage-dominated. This needs time, though, and will be bottled much later, with the grands crus. 2027–37. 88
Chablis Premier Cru Forêts
Up-right, herbal, minty, and peppery. A sprightly attack. Lively and prancing on the palate. I like the zesty notes. 2026–35. 87–88
Chablis Premier Cru Montmains
Fruity, yellow-peach and greengage aroma, which is reflected on the juicy and expressive palate. Almost a touch jammy and heavy. “Still under the influence of the vintage,” says Guillaume. 2026–34. 85+?
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
This has lovely freshness and layering. A rather discreet Clos. Pure, intense, compact, and persistent. Really focused. Even a touch austere. Very good indeed. 94
Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles
“I am lost: an oaky taste yet no new oak!” exclaims Guillaume. It will be interesting to see how it will evolve in tank. Toasty, creamy, and rich. For the moment, there’s a lot on the front palate; the middle isn’t showing yet, but it’s savory to finish. 2026–35. 90
Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir
From the more north/west-facing slope. The most elegant Vaudésir I tasted in 2022 and again in 2023—it has such charm. So silky and refined. Glides on the palate. Shimmies into a light, soft salt finish. 2027–35+. 93
J MOREAU ET FILS (CHABLIS)
I was impressed with the wines at J Moreau: high-quality, with distinctive terroir identity. Lucie Depuydt oversees 200ha (500 acres) and the production of 2 million bottles, including other ranges. For the premier and grand cru Chablis, she always works with the same parcels. “I check everything, from the pruning onward, throughout the growing season.” She was not afraid of lower acidity in 2023 and waited for what she regards as full ripeness, as she has a particular dislike of pyrazines. Montée de Tonnerre is a good example. It has a high pH—3.4—yet is steely and fresh. The analytical figures are one thing, the taste quite another. “If you respect the wine, you do not have to modify anything.” She favors long lees aging, 16–18 months, and 2023 is no exception. “I can wait for the best moment. We have the space, so I can do the best job for the wine. I am under no pressure.” She adds “It is a warm vintage with fruity notes, but we still have a limestone sensation.”
Petit Chablis
Splashing, citrus aroma. Juicy and bright, with cool-stone freshness on the finish. Very inviting. 2024–27. 82–83
Chablis
A 300,000-bottle cuvée. Quite a long lees-contact on this wine. Rounded mid-palate, with appealing apricot fruit, but it finishes with flinty minerality. “I always want a smoky minerality but with yellow fruit, and the balance between the two gives you a wine that is easy to drink without anything aggressive.” 2025–27. 84
Chablis
This organic Chablis has a more reserved, yet citrusy, aroma. Pings onto the palate. Nicely vibrant and juicy, with ripe lemon on the mid-palate. A smooth, wet-stone finish. 2026–30. 84
Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Milieu
Three parcels; one at the top of the hill, another south-facing toward the bottom of the slope, and one more easterly. Exotic floral aroma. Rich orange blossom on the strike. More elegant and fresher than I expected. Threaded with silvery minerals, this has lively energy and a silky texture. Maybe the best I tasted in 2023. 2027–36+. 90
Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre
From a parcel toward the top of the vineyard, with a slightly westerly exposition. Lucie waited for this parcel to ripen. Lime zest and thyme flower on the nose. A hint of silex. Straight and channeled, this vigorous wine has steely minerality. 2027–38. 90
Chablis Premier Cru Montmains
From old vines in Butteaux and 25-year-old vines in Forêt. There is 30% oak of various sizes. Aroma is fresh and sappy, savory. It’s more Butteaux than Forêt in profile. Full, rounded, and sapid. Fresh and rich, a smooth, limestone feel, with a polished, fresh glide on the finish. Really rather good. 2027–35+. 88
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
A touch of guava and pineapple on the nose, and the tropical flavors continue on the palate. Glossy and rounded. Spicy. 25% older oak. Alluring depth and richness. Just at the end, a touch of salt. 2026–32. 86–87
Chablis Premier Cru Vaucoupin
From three parcels, two more than 65 years old, just above the steep part of the slope. 30% older oak. A hot limestone aroma: a juxtaposition of ripeness and savory coolness, even on the nose. Salty and straight. Crisply edged. Slightly severe. Tension and bite, and the finish is austere and persistent. Like sucking on stone. Love it. 2027–35+. 89–90
Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
Golden on the aroma and on the succulent palate; smooth and gliding, this stretches and purrs into a lovely, long finish. Sweet and chalky. Very good typicité. 2027–38. 92
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
From the west-facing part of Valmur, 0.8ha (2 acres), and one grower. Lucie uses Ermitage barrels for Valmur. “The choice of the oak is so important, and I have spent years to find the right cooper for this.” A savory, bay-leaf note. Punchy and intense on the nose. Very compact and layered, with muscular density and slatey minerality. It tastes cold and powerful. Reserved and layered. A really good example. 2028–40. 93
DOMAINE MOREAU-NAUDET (CHABLIS)
Spontaneous fermentation and mostly aged in stainless steel, but some cuvées have a small proportion of oak-aged wine in older barriques. Unfortunately, when this was the case, I was not given the blend, only the stainless-steel part. “Good ripeness, as we waited, but different from the 2022, which is easier to taste and drink immediately. 2023 is more reserved and more typical for Chablis,” says Virginie Moreau. “I prefer 2023 to 2022. 2020 was my most recent favorite year, then 2014.”
Petit Chablis
From 3ha (7.5 acres) in Beine, on more Portlandian soil. Pretty zesty and bright. Good acidity. Lively and energetic. 2024–26. 80
Chablis Vieilles Vignes Les Pargues
From a parcel neighboring Servin’s. Virginie’s grandmother planted these vines: “Low-yielding, always.” More concentration and some influence from the oak—20% but older oak. Savory, with a salty and sappy finish. Wait for this. It’s not fruity. 2025–30+. 84–85
Chablis Premier Cru Les Forêts
Upright and up-toned. Salty and straight. More edgy, nervy, and quivering than the Montmains. “A good, very typical representation of Chablis premier cru—my favorite,” says Virginie. Good terroir typicité. 2026–32+. 87–88
Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre
Savory, with firm structure and good tension. Straight, with lithe muscularity. This was the tank sample, but I felt it needed the barrel part and was missing something. 2027–35. 86–87
Chablis Premier Cru Montmains
“This is better using only tank, or else we get too much heaviness and sweetness—I want more freshness,” says Virginie. From fruit in Montmains and Butteaux (0.8ha [2 acres]), fermented together. A firmly structured, rounded wine. It had just been racked and moved, but goodness, it punched through. 2026–32+. 87
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
The warmer face of Valmur, more south-facing. Big-boned wine. Firm, dense, and full. Certainly, some matter here. Powerful, honed finish. No oak for this wine. “It is too heavy if we put it in barrels.” 2027–35+. 91–92
DOMAINE FRANÇOIS RAVENEAU (CHABLIS)
Isabelle Raveneau recounts her experience in 2023. “We had rain in the spring and humid conditions, so we had a hard time maintaining the soils, as there were a lot of weeds. The weather for flowering was nice and pollination was good. We had to use one systemic spray after flowering because of the pressure of oidium. “Our goal is to grow the best grapes to make the best wine. Some years, you will have diseases. And it is hard for us to accept that we will lose grapes to mildew or oidium. It is important that we explain why we do this. If you are organic, you will be spraying several times a week—and the copper you will use is very bad for the soil. Tractors use diesel, which is also bad for the environment, and they compact the soil, too. We like years when we don’t have to spray much at all, but you can’t be an extremist as a farmer.”
“In early September, it was hot and dry, which allowed the berries to ripen nicely, and we started harvesting on the 12th, just after the big heatwave. It was crazy in the winery. It is usually just two of us, but in 2023 it was fortunate that we had an intern. We had a lot of juice to process. We didn’t press very hard—the skins were so soft that the juice was already flowing. The last vintage like this was 2018. We didn’t take the last part of the press, because the pH was high, and we had enough juice. Moreover, to keep up with the pickers, the pressing had to be quite short, as we have only one press. The days were very long. The lees were golden and very nice.
“The Petit Chablis and the Chablis go through 500-liter demi-muids. All the other wines pass through barriques, which have to be renewed, so this represents about 6% new in 2023, while in 2022 it was higher, 10–15%, because the 2021 crop was so small. Lower acidity than in 2022, but not soft. The same profile as 2011 and 2018—not very concentrated, but joyful.”
Petit Chablis
From younger vines planted in 2010, on the Envers de Valmur plateau above the grand cru climats. Bright and zesty, with juicy, ripe-lime fruitiness. A vivacious wine which whips across the palate with a chalky puff to finish. 2026–30+. 83–84
Chablis
From several parcels, the largest lying on the opposite slope to Montmains, with a northwest exposure. Ripe and rich and sumptuous, with silky minerals. Sides elegantly into the finish, which is nicely sustained. More streamlined than in 2022 and more mineral. Just to make sure, I retried the 2022, and my initial impression was correct. 2026–34. 86
Chablis Premier Cru Butteaux
The most sapid of the wines from the Montmains hillside. Perched on the hilltop, the climat is steep—we went down on scooters. A cool microclimate and shallow soil make it quite mineral, especially from 55-year-old vines. It has some reserve and austerity and is slightly snappy. There is a cold richness and density. Savory tension on the finish. Chilly-chalky sapidity and minerality. I do like this. 2027–85+. 90
Chablis Premier Cru Forêts
Deeper soil than the Montmains or Butteaux parcels, as this goes down to the bottom of the slope, where there is a natural amphitheater, so the microclimate is warmer and without wind. It’s richer and more generous than Montmains. More compact and earthier, and it has a nice, phenolic, bitter-almond bite on the finish. Grippier than Montmains. 2027–36. 89
Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre
From 3.1ha (8 acres), representing one third of the domaine. Because the holding is so large—across nine parcels in Chaplelot and Pied d’Aloup—and because there are vines of different ages, it is the most consistent climat. Concentrated and rich, compact and dense. Has plenty of punch and vigor. Ripe, with a note of greengage and spice, but focuses to a straight, persistent, and channeled finish. The best Montée de Tonnerre I tasted in 2023. 2028–38. 91–92
Chablis Premier Cru Montmains
From the very top of Montmains, on the plateau, where it’s windy. It’s upright and crisp, with a positive, herbal, thyme-flower note. Quite delicate and crisp. Tastes more like a Forêt. 2027–35. 89
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
Largely (90%) from Vaillons itself, with a little from Sécher. It is rounded and generous but has an airiness to it. Not too rich. Fragrant white peach, for it’s notably aromatic and flourishing on the finish. Very appealing. 2027–35. 88
Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots
From an east-facing parcel, right at the top, next to Clos, with the most venerable vines of the domaine (90 years old); a massal selection on Fercal rootstock. This is the parcel in production. In spring 2025, Maxime will replant a section that has been fallow for some years, ripped out because of court noué virus. The 2023 is super-juicy upfront, tight and cold breezy behind. There is breadth and dimension—for Blanchot—but also has sparkling, shivery tension and minerality to finish. A sprinkle of soft salt at the end. A delightful wine. 2028–40. 94
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
From four plots on the slope, quite narrow and long. For now, it is densely layered and battened down, but even more sophisticated than the Valmur. Excellent persistence. 2028–40. 94
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
From a parcel where there is no sun until 10am, but by midday, the sun is strong, though it cools down after that. “We try to work in the early morning here, because it is too hot in the afternoon.” Richly glossy and muscular. A dense and compact palate, super-savory on the finish. This Valmur is all guns blazing. 2028–40. 93–94
DOMAINE SERVIN (CHABLIS)
The Servin family have been farmers and builders, with some vineyards, since the middle of the 17th century. François’s great-grandfather was a cooper for a négociant, and his grandfather was the first in the family to become a full-time grower, selling wine in barrels to negotiants. His grandfather was among the first growers in Chablis to bottle his own wine, in the 1950s. Domaine François Servin now produces 250,000 bottles annually.
Many of their vines are massal selection. “My father was a farmer first. Clones were too expensive, so all planting was massal selection in his lifetime. Wine growers suffered until the ’70s. To be married to a wine grower was not a good thing. It wasn’t a respected job!” Marc Cameron remarks that the massal selection vines seem to cope better with difficult, cooler vintages, including 2021, not only with hot and dry vintages.
Servin was among the first to start picking in 2023, from September 8. It took two weeks and they now have two matching machine-harvesters. François Servin remarked, “It would take us three weeks if we picked by hand, while [in a normal harvest] picking by machine takes 12 days, so we can pick at optimal ripeness. There are advantages. If it rains, you can stop, but you can’t just keep pickers waiting. We would need 80 people. It’s impossible for us to get that number of pickers and to accommodate them.” Marc Cameron, Servin’s brother-in-law, adds, “The quality of the juice is better from machine harvesting, and modern machines are much softer in the vineyard. For reds, it’s a very different world of course, but for whites, machine is more precise. It gives us options.” Not a cheap option, though—each machine costs €350,000.
Servin settles using enzymes, to have very fine lees, which Marc Cameron says is necessary with machine-harvesting. Some of the cuvées are aged for longer than average in Chablis—in other words, over a second winter—so Servin prefers to have less lees, which they stir, “to reduce the risk of reduction,” says Marc. It’s a tradition to mature wine longer before bottling, going back to François’s father, who didn’t have the space (tanks require less room than bottles) but also because he would simply wait for an order. These days, Servin makes several bottlings of many cuvées, allowing the wines to age for as long as possible on lees.
The premiers and grands crus are fermented in larger oak barrels. Montée de Tonnerre, Mont de Milieu, and the grands crus are racked into older 450-liter barrels for a second winter.
The wines show good terroir distinction. Available cellar door and good value.
Petit Chablis
From 0.61ha (acres) of 33-year-old vines in Sur Les Clos on the plateau above the grand cru climats: “just a lot of rock at the top of the hill,” says François Servin. A light citrus aroma. It has some grip, tension, and structure for a Petit Chablis. Very good. 2024–27. 82
Chablis Cuvée Massale
From an old-vine massal selection within Les Pargues, 30% fermented in second- or third-fill barrels. “I would like to have some bigger and stronger Chablis, so I put some in older oak, just to have extra depth and length,” says François Servin. They were still bottling the ’22s in May 2024. Richer, deeper, and more generous than the other Pargues cuvée. Quite sumptuous but also quite punchy to finish. 2025–28. 84
Chablis Cuvée Les Pargues
Growers have petitioned for this climat to be promoted to premier cru, but so far without success. Maybe not all the climat would merit a rise in status. Around five producers make it. Bright and fresh, with bitter-pithy, sherbet notes. Pushes nicely on the finish for a village wine. 2024–27. 83–84
Chablis Premier Cru Butteaux
“Clay, but not marl, with deeper topsoil than in Forêts. But very close to Forêts—less than 100m [330ft],” says François. All fermented all in 4- to 5-year-old barrels. Much fuller and richer, denser and fatter than the Forêts. Has some heft for a Left Bank cru. Punchy. Quite bullish. 2026–35. 86–87
Chablis Premier Cru Les Forêts
From only 0.37ha (just under 1 acre) at the top of the vineyard, planted in 1999. Tank-fermented and aged. Already in bottle in May 2024. “We want to respect the elegant character by bottling early.” Light, pure, and elegant. Quite delicate and straight. A pretty Chablis. 2025–30. 85–86
Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Millieu
From a parcel planted in 1974, acquired in 2012 from the same grower as the Vaucoupin (see below). All from barriques, but five or more years old. “We never had the full-bodied style, as this is from the less warm exposure into the valley,” says Marc. Lightly glossy and rounded, but also quite flowery. Pink aromatics on the palate but threaded with a silvery minerality on the finish. Stretches out in a ribbon. 2027–35. 88–89
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
This is from five of the seven parcels (not the two farthest into the valley) vinified together. But to harvest the total 2.5ha (acres) the same day, machine-harvesting is required. All in tank. Smooth and juicy. Lightly rounded. White peach, softly fragrant, and then the minerality comes through. This is a lovely overview of the whole climat. 2025–34. 86
Chablis Premier Cru Vaucoupin
Servin bought the parcel for this in 2012, from a vigneronne who was retiring and didn’t want to sell to anyone in her village. She found Servin through her accountant. The vines are now 57 years old. “Everyone has this style from Vaucoupin. Ten years ago, it was not fashionable. But it is the style of Chablis I like to drink—it is stronger,” says Francois. A tight, stony palate. Oyster shell. Tension. Almost a sinewy character. Quite phenolic on the finish. I like the bitterness. Bottled in May 2024. 2026–35. 87–88
Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots
From a parcel high up, by Raveneau’s, plus a little from the bottom of the slope. All from stainless steel. Floral, white-petal aroma. Supple, delicate, and fine. It does have volume, but also a cotton-wool, puffy lightness, yet with intensity into the finish, which is lightly shiny, with a pinch of salt. 2029–35. 91
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros
“More clay here and less rock,” explains François, “from above our parcel of Preuses, which has lots of oyster shells, while the Bougros wine is more of a Côte d’Or style.” “More power than Clos,” adds Marc. Honey and orange aroma. Rich, dense, muscular, and compact. A beefy wine, with a gloss to the texture. 2026–35. 91
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
There is one tree in Clos, and it is Servin’s parcel. “People ask for it to be cut down,” but François is holding his ground. To me, this is a big step up from the Bougros: more complex and layered. Just more sophisticated and woven, with an intense, persistent finish. Easy harmony. 2028–35. 92
SIMONNET-FEBVRE (CHABLIS)
White
Chablis Premier Cru Forêts
Sweet strike, but with more energy and intensity than the Montmains. It’s also quite soft and creamy, but lighter and more refined, with rich floral notes to finish. 2025–30. 87
Chablis Premier Cru Montmains
Earthy upfront, it gathers richness and creaminess on the mid-palate. Ripe and easygoing, quite soft and immediately accessible, with a slightly smoky finish. 2025–28. 85
Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons
A glossy palate, with generous apricot fruit. It has a smooth glide, with a light, savory, stone underpinning to the palate, which carries into the finish. 2025–30. 86
Vezélay
Simple and attractive wine, with a ripe-citrus, silky palate. A honeysuckle floral note wafts over the fruit and there’s a puff of soft chalk. It’s quite soft and has instant and easy appeal. 2025–26. 82
Red
Irancy Les Mazelots
Bright and juicy, with attractive, crunchy tannin and a slight piquancy. I like the rosehip aromatics. A simple, lively, crisp wine from a warm vintage. 2025–27. 82–83
DOMAINE SAINT ANTOINE (CHABLIS)
Chablis Vieilles Vignes
Easygoing and soft. Light and slightly creamy, with a touch of guava fruit. Well-made but innocuous. It’s Chardonnay without any real Chablis character or intensity. Left in the gîte I stayed in. This will be the style of many a Chablis in 2023.
DOMAINE RICHOUX (IRANCY)
Gabin (33) and Felix (30) have joined their parents Corinne and Thierry at this certified organic Irancy estate, which has 25ha (62 acres) and makes six different wines, including a rosé. They are the third generation of wine growers. In a good year they might made 120,000 bottles. The average is about 80,000.
Everything here is hand-harvested and passed across two sorting tables. The wines on the market were destemmed, but from the 2021 vintage, Gabin has experimented, where space allows, with some whole-bunch. Only remontage is used. Gabin changed his mind about the César grape variety about ten years ago. “With global warming, it is important to include César.” The family has roots in Chitry, where Gabin has plans to plant 1ha (2.5 acres) of Chardonnay. A low-intervention, low-added-sulfur approach; in 2018, 2019, 2020, and 2022 Gabin added no SO2 before racking pre-bottling. “In 2021 and 2023, I used 3 to 4g/l—in 2023, because the pH was high.” There is about 10% new oak.
Irancy
A large cuvée made from 12ha (30 acres), which always includes some Veaupessiot, Palotte, Les Cailles, and Les Mazelots. After fermentation in stainless steel, the wines are blended and moved into foudres of 50, 60, and 80hl for 12 months, with a further year in vat. Very attractive, fresh red-berry aroma. On the palate, splashing, juicy, with a soft summer-fruit glow. Happy wine, with light, crisp tannins. 2025–29. 81
Irancy Veaupessiot
From a southwest-facing section of this climat, where the domaine also has a few rows of César. Aging will be for three years in 600-liter barrels and in tanks. The sample I had was just an indication, as it came from only one barrel. Lightly spicy, bright and juicy with red fruit. Straight and energetic. Looks promising. 2025–29. 84+
Irancy Palotte
This climat has a southerly exposition. Richoux has 0.4ha (1 acre), with some vines dating back to 1937. 100% whole-bunch fermentation. The 2023 is rich and tannic. Grippier and more muscular than the Veaupessiot. 2026–29. 83
Irancy Merci La Foule
From Chérelle Ouest, where Thierry Richoux planted 0.17ha (0.4 acre) at a high density of 21,000 vines per hectare. Always 100% whole-bunch fermentation. “The first vineyard we picked, as the berries are small and ripe.” It produces sufficient grapes for just one barrel. Rich cherry aroma. Juicy strike, with some floral and spicy notes. Concentrated mid-palate, with an attractively firm structure and a light chew to the tannin. Freshness from a herbal, minty note finishes it off nicely. 2026–30+. 85+
DOMAINE WILLIAM CHARRIAT (IRANCY)
The Charriat family has been making wine since the 1550s, and I met with Martin Charriat who represents the 13th generation. They have 18.5ha (46 acres) and will be organically certified in 2025, although they have already been working organically for 15 years. The lieux-dits of Palotte and Mouroux are made separately, and more recently Veaupessiot has been, too. “Palotte is the most famous place in Irancy,” says Martin Charriat. The domaine ages wine for a long time in barriques, 600-liter barrels, and foudres (avoiding new oak), before further aging in stainless steel and then in bottle. 2020 is the vintage currently offered. Every year, the Charriat family tastes a bottle of wine from 1967, and Martin tells me, “You can keep Irancy wines for a long time.” I particularly liked the Veaupessiot, which is 100% Pinot Noir and is the purest and most elegant of the wines I tried here.
Irancy
This wine includes 2-3% César. An attractive, cherry-like, fresh, and lifted aroma. Splashing, juicy attack. An appealing bitter snap; crisp and crunchy tannins. Simple… but what’s not to like? I question why it will have prolonged aging which, I’d have thought, might tire the fruit. 2024–28. 81
Irancy Mouroux
From a parcel bought by William Charriat and planted from the 1970s to the 1990s, including 8–9% César. I tried the 2017, which I found tough and tannic, with a licorice note, still needing time to soften. I can’t say I enjoyed the inclusion of César in this wine—maybe nearly 10% is too much. The 2023 sample is denser and more muscular than the other wines here. Bitterness and grip. Here, too, there is licorice, and the whole thing is quite dark and chewy. A traditional style. 2028–32. 82
Irancy Palotte
From two parcels planted in 1936 and 1997, including César as a field blend. “The César was very ripe and was picked at the same time as the Pinot Noir. With the climate as it is now, we see fewer differences in harvest dates for César and Pinot Noir.” A ripe aroma, with cherry-syrup notes. I prefer the palate, which is super-juicy and bright; quite snappy and crunchy. I didn’t note the proportion of César in the blend, but it doesn’t seem at all overpowering. Perhaps it gives the slight grip, which is quite nice. 2026–30. 83–84
Irancy Veaupessiot
From vines on both sides of the small combe in Vaupessiot, but Charriat’s are mostly on the southeast flank. The youngest vines here were planted in 2000. An upright, red-cherry aroma, slightly floral. I like this wine, which is delicate and bright, with a lightly austere snap. You can almost taste the limestone. Lively and bright. Crunchy and slightly sapid to finish. It has some follow through. 2026–30. 84
