Martinborough seemed to lose a little of its luster as that of Central Otago grew—an exchange that made little sense to me, because although Pinot Noir is the signature grape variety for both, they have very different styles. The richness, depth, complexity, and intensity of the Pinot here has many fans and always will.
Technically, Martinborough is a subregion of Wairarapa (as are the more northerly Masterton and Gladstone). Vines were first planted here in 1883 but failed to survive the temperance movement. It was not until the 1970s that they were revived. But despite this late start, this is a region with some of the most thrilling names in New Zealand wine—Ata Rangi, Dry River, Kusuda, Escarpment, and Martinborough Estate, while Te Kairanga has returned to its former glories, and Craggy Range has established an extensive operation. Wineries like Palliser Estate and Schubert also have stories that could fill pages.
With plantings of just over 1,000ha (2,470 acres), Pinot Noir dominates, though not to the extent one might think, with 527ha (1,300 acres), just under half the total region. The ubiquitous Sauvignon Blanc occupies 394ha (974 acres), with Chardonnay—in many minds the second most important grape here, thanks to the flavor and complexity it offers—a bare 62ha (153 acres). It says a great deal that when we looked at a wide range of white wines from Martinborough, the vast majority were Chardonnay, with hardly a Sauvignon Blanc in sight (and certainly not one that I could recommend in good conscience when one looks at other options). For me, the stellar Chardonnays, all from the 2022 vintage, were Te Kairanga’s Runholder, Martinborough Estate’s Home Block, Escarpment’s Dry River, and Ata Rangi’s Masters. From 2021, the latter trio shone.
Among 2021 Pinot (a brilliant vintage here, as in Hawke’s Bay), we looked at several from 2015 for perspective: Dry River, Palliser’s Hua Nui, Craggy Range’s Aroha, Te Kairanga’s WPF 2020, Escarpment’s single-vineyard Kiwa, and also its Kupe, Schubert’s Block B 2015, Ata Rangi, both 2021 and 2015, and Kusuda from the same pair of vintages. These were world-class Pinots.
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Most producers will be reasonably well known, except perhaps Kusuda, another of those infuriating cult wineries from which it has become near-impossible to find a bottle. By Kiwi standards, it is not shy about pricing, but by world standards, there can be no argument as to what brilliant value these wines are. It was established by the eponymous Hiroyuki Kusuda, a wine-obsessed Japanese lawyer who was working in Sydney when the urge became irresistible, and he decided to establish his own vineyards. He had seen Pinot from Martinborough on trips to New Zealand, and this was where he wanted to settle. In 2001, after working in wineries around the world and studying in Germany, he moved there and leased a small vineyard. His first vintage was 2002. Quantities remain minuscule but have expanded beyond Pinot to include Riesling and Syrah (see Bruce Schoenfeld, “New Zealand Syrah: Shining a New Light,” WFW 57, 2017, pp.130–35). These are grab-what-you-can-when-you-can wines.
It is impossible to imagine that Martinborough Pinot Noir will not establish itself as a world-class style that sits comfortably with the very best. Chardonnay might seem a side project, but the wines are too good not to make a mark. Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer are the two niche whites that can work, while there is some excellent Syrah here as well.
Martinborough: A selection of fine Pinot Noir
2021 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir
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Always a star and, in this great vintage, even more thrilling. Black cherries, mushrooms on toast, florals; this is savory and amazingly long and complex. A decade plus ahead of it. | 98
2021 Dry River Pinot Noir
The current Pinots have lost some of the muscular burly structure that we saw for years, and they are all the better for it. This is full of root-vegetable notes, fresh beetroot, and truffles, with a sweet core of cassis. Compelling. | 97
2021 Kusuda Pinot Noir
Knife-edge balance, the silkiest of tannins, and a lingering finish, with notes of aniseed, kirsch, and truffles, through to a hint of sour cherries and red jellybeans on the finish. Wonderful. | 98
2021 Escarpment Kupe Pinot Noir
Complexity and class. There is depth and brooding power here, with cassis, florals, fungal notes, undergrowth, and spices. Delicately balanced. | 97
