One Bottle: 2016 Domaine de Villaine Bouzeron: Locked-down glory
The Great Lockdown fell on us like snow in the small hours. When we woke, the conditional right of free…
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Horizon-altering
One Bottle: 2010 Pinot Gris Clos St-Urbain Rangen de Thann, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Grasses, willows, and Indian balsam line its banks;…
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One Bottle: 2011 Château Suduiraut Sauternes: The fruit of nobility of spirit
One Bottle: 2011 Château Suduiraut Sauternes A week ago, I stood in the vineyards of Suduiraut. There was a soft…
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One Bottle: Domaine Taupenot-Merme 1998 Charmes-Chambertin: Letting the land sing
Once or twice a year, I lead small groups of students and wine lovers on tours in Burgundy. I do…
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One Bottle: Domaine Tissot 2011 Château-Chalon: The variety behind the veil
One Bottle: 2011 Château-Chalon, Domaine Tissot It’s winter. La Réserve Thomas, Lyon; mixed company, granite light. Lunchers shuffle in, un-muffle,…
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One Bottle: Château de Tracy 2012 Pouilly-Fumé Haut Densité: The smell and taste of cold itself
I visited Château de Tracy on a chill November day. Moisture clings to the air here; winter in the central…
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One Bottle: Domaine Capmartin 2010 Cuvée du Couvent Madiran: A life force, liquefied
The weather? Here in Languedoc, it must have rained heavily at the close of November 2012, since the photographs I…
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One Bottle: Bollinger Special Cuvée NV: Opening the door to memory
There’s a task I carry out each year for which payment is one magnum of Bollinger. I don’t, in turn,…
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