NUITS-ST-GEORGES
DOMAINE DE L’ARLOT
Winemaker Géraldine Godot remarked, “2023 was unusual for two reasons—and the first was the weather. A yo-yo year. Warm, colder, hotter, wetter… very varied during the season until August. But even if it was very heterogeneous, we knew from the flowering that we would have a large volume compared with previous vintages.”
She recalls that the first week of August was cold and she was concerned about the large crop ripening, “but after this it was hot and so we had good ripeness, despite the volume. Even if for us, we didn’t reach the maximum yield for each appellation. We took care of the vineyard, practiced debudding, and so we have a normal volume”. She did a green-harvest only for the Romanée-St-Vivant. She comments that they always get more rain in Premeaux-Prissey than other parts of the Côte de Nuits.
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Harvest started on September 6, with the white grapes in Arlot, and finished on the 12th. “Usually, we have 20–25hlha, but in 2023 we had 40–43hl/ha. There was a big storm on the 12th during the paulée, and then the rain cycle continued. We are happy to show that we have both quantity and quality. It is important even for me to see that we can make higher volume and maintain the quality.”
In the winery, the volume created logistical challenges, and they needed to buy more tanks. “For the whites, we were not able to start in tank, as we needed the tanks for the the reds, so the whites went straight into barrels.”
The white Hautes-Côtes and Côte de Nuits-Villages fermented in barrels that were under the winery where it was cold, so the temperature was not a problem, but for the white l’Arlot she circulated cold water through a tube into the barrels and found that this effectively lowered the temperature by 5ºC (9ºF).
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Géraldine is looking for a low phenolic content in her whites. “I add some bentonite in the press to help with the sedimentation. For the débourbage, we cool to 12ºC (54ºF) for one or two days. We try to have as clear a juice as we can. When we rack before bottling, we have between three and five liters of lees per barrel, so not so much.”
For the reds, all the fruit is destemmed—an approach that Géraldine began with the 2021 vintage. “As usual, pumping-over every morning. We needed to be precise at each step.”
“We acidified all the reds, to have a good balance and not to have issues with brett, as the pHs were over 3.7. It’s logical—we lost both malic and tartaric acid, so we knew we would acidify.”
After pressing, she had 10g/l of sugar in Clos des Forêts St-Georges and 5g/l in the RSV, and it was difficult to consume the sugar, so she added yeast. “It is worse when there is low sugar and the fermentation stops, which is more often the case.” She thinks that in 2023 the opposite happened, because it was not possible to work the whole tanks because of the volume (they use only remontage), so at pressing there were still unbroken berries with sugar.
“It is not a dark vintage, even if late-August and September were hot. Not a solar vintage, but more what we expect for classic Burgundy.”
“It has nice acidity and is not too concentrated. Even though the years are warmer and warmer, we can still find freshness in the wines. 2023 is not like 2020. 2022 has a little more complexity.”
“Not too much alcohol—13–13.5%. I recall 2017 and 2021 for a similar, fruity, lighter style like 2023. Maybe this level of alcohol is the Burgundy style—when it is higher, we lose the character of the appellation and of Burgundy in general. But you cannot control the year. The alcohol level is more and more important. It is not necessary to have more than 12–13%.”
“We have to pay attention to ripeness. With the weather we have now, we should not be so focused on the sugar and alcohol, but on the acidy. We have to forget 14% ABV—I am happy with 12.5%.”
“In 2024, we could increase the alcohol by 2.5%, but I prefer 1% to 1.2%. It one thing to recognize that the market wants lower alcohol, but to do it 2024 would be the beginning of another discussion in Burgundy.”
There are attractive whites and refined red wines from Domaine de l’Arlot this year.
White
Hautes-Cotes de Nuits Le Mont
From a parcel above Clos des Fôrets, 1ha (2.47 acres), where the upper two thirds are planted with chardonnay. This year the fruit is light apricot, with some spicy notes. Peachy and generous on the front-palate, but it becomes tight, clipped, and crisp, with an attractive and slightly bitter kernel note to finish. 2025–26. 84–85
Côte de Nuits-Villages Au Leurey
From the other side of the road from the domaine. Somewhat more floral on the nose, and on the palate, open and juicy. Generous, even a touch tropical, with litchee notes. I like the end of the palate, which has a slight bitterness, but I prefer the lighter and more vibrant Hautes-Côtes. 2026–27. 84
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos de l’Arlot Blanc
A light, nutty aroma, with a hint of golden peach, then on the palate, it has a light gloss up-front and quite a firm structure, albeit smoothly stoney. An appealing tannic note to the finish, which combines with some sapidity and austerity. From 2026–30+. 92–93
Red
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Le Mont
This is last vintage of this cuvée. There was not enough fruit to make it in 2024, and now the Pinot Noir has been removed, to be replanted with Chardonnay. A ripe raspberry fruit aroma. This is smooth up-front, and the fruit is fresh, juicy, red cherry. A lively palate, with a crunchiness to the finish. Sour cherry at the end. Very appetizing. A shame this is the last vintage. 2026–28. 84–85
Côte de Nuits-Villages Clos du Chapeau
This is more perfumed on the aroma, while the palate is juicy and energetic, and on the finish, there is a touch of stemminess and a light herbal crunch to the end. 2026–30. 86
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Cuvée Mont des Oiseaux
Vines from the top part of the vineyard and younger vines. Upright, slightly haughty, red-cherry aroma, with an attractive, smoky reduction. Crisp and light, with plenty of tension and a fizzle of chalky freshness. Dances to a mineral tune. Sparkles on the palate. Such a pretty wine. 2026–32. 92
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos de l’Arlot
From 60-year-old vines. Ripe red-cherry and floral aromas. I love the delicacy. Finely textured chiffon tannin. Lucid, wafting. Bright. There is a herbal aromatic note to the finish, which I think accentuated the freshness. A shiver of red fruit and salt at the end. 2026–32. 94
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Forêts St-Georges
Forest fruits, much wilder and earthier when tasted after the urbane Vosne Suchots. It has light grip and a compact, somewhat growling palate. Strong and dark, smoky and earthy to finish. Powerful punch to the finish. Not as sophisticated as the Suchots, but there is no doubting the length. “It has muscles, and we have more structure here. I feel it is a level up,” says Géraldine. 2028–35. 94–95
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Suchots
An expressive and intense aroma of ripe summer fruit: strawberry fields. Almost creamy into the palate. Ice-cream texture, succulent and rich. Rounded yet airy. It has a light white-peppery note. Such a suave Suchots, ripples into the finish. I can see the rose petal on the finish which, as this wine evolves, I am sure will become more defined. Just a lovely example. 2027–35. 95–96
DOMAINE JEAN CHAUVENET
Christophe Drag harvested September 16–21. “Many people started September 8, but the grapes were not ripe enough physiologically. We waited—it was cooler harvesting later and there was no rain. We have 50hl/ha for the premiers crus and 55hl/ha for the village wines. We used 50 pickers.” He didn’t do a green-harvest. “Since 2003, we have had grasses between the rows, and with that competition the grapes are always small. I think the grasses were very beneficial. The grapes didn’t need any sorting.
“Because it was not so hot when we harvested, the grapes were cooler and it was easy to do a cold pre-fermentation maceration at around 14ºC (57ºF).” Christophe likes five days or so for this—really more for logistic reasons, so he can finish the harvest and then concentrate on making the wine.
Without any chaptalization, the alcohol levels were around 13.5% ABV for the village wines and 13.7% ABV for the premiers crus. Before MLF, the pHs were 3.30–3.54 and malic acid levels were 1.3–1.7g/l. No acidification.
All the fruit was destemmed—Christophe really doesn’t like whole-bunch. He recalls that the work in the winery was very easy. He could simply have parked a chair in the winery and let it make itself. After the cold-soak, he let the temperature go to 32–33ºC (89–91ºF)—he would have cooled if it had gone higher, but that was not necessary in 2023.
Christophe was alone in the winery last year, as his assistant was unwell, hence he hadn’t finished vinifying when I was tasting in the Côte de Nuits. This is why I had no notes for the 2022s. I find Christophe’s wines very reliable, benchmark Nuits and always like to visit. He says it was easy to extract in 2023, as the phenolic maturity was very good and the skins were thick and the berries small.
Extraction was mainly through pigeage—two a day for four days—then just maceration. “The post-fermentation maceration is important for the tannins.” After pressing, the wine was left in stainless steel for 7–10 days—“I want to wait, so that I take only good lees”—then racked. MLF went through between February and May 2024. ‘I will bottle in February or maybe January 2025. A lot of freshness and purity and energy. For me, it is a very interesting vintage, and each parcel has its signature.”
“It is like 2017 for the freshness and the pleasure. For Burgundy, this vintage is easy to understand. Ripe but not strong. The freshness is very important. This makes it very different from 2018 and 2020. Those two vintages, and the 2022, may have greater longevity. But with a carafe, you could open the 2023s in a couple of years.”
In Christophe’s 2023s, I was surprised by the concentration coupled with freshness and plentiful, ripe tannin. It just goes to show how diverse this vintage can be. Christophe’s wines are a great example of what could be achieved in Nuits in 2023—and it is rather remarkable that he didn’t green-harvest.
Bourgogne
Black-fruit aroma. Full and juicy, with dark fruit. A lot of wine here. Good freshness, slightly robust tannin, and plenty of stuffing in this Bourgogne. Quite a chunky mouthful. 2026–28. 84
Nuits-St-Georges
A ripe, dark, forest-fruit aroma, somewhat sooty. The palate is rich and full, with plentiful, ripe tannin. Christmas spices. Good stuffing for a village wine, and once again fresh to finish. 2027–30. 87
Vosne-Romanée
From Aux Ravoilles, a lieu-dit on the border of Nuits. “We work a lot here, as we have strong tannins. Just gray earth, which is compact as there are no stones. Very compact soil when it is dry. We have Nuits-St-Georges soils here.” An inviting, red-fruit, summery aroma. Sumptuous, rounded, and generous, with a smooth richness of tannins and a slight grip, with freshness on the finish. A lot of power to this village Vosne. “We stopped the punching-down very quickly for this appellation. We made three punch-downs for just three days. 2026–32. 88–89
Nuits-St-Georges Les Lavières
“Aux Ravoilles and Lavières have just a small track separating them,” explained Christophe. “Lavières is higher, with gravel and sand—it’s so strange that the soils are so different.” Perfumed: a dark aroma, violets, smooth and sweeping. The supple palate is woven with lovely freshness, and on the finish there is plenty of energy. 2026–32. 89–90
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Damodes
“Half the parcel is right on the mother rock, and we have problems with erosion.” Red fruit, with a waft of the spice market on the nose, but the palate is different. Supple at first, then light grip and a slightly bitter hint of charcoal and tapenade. A savory palate. Salty. Interesting. 2026–35. 93–94
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Bousselots
“My Bousselots is on the north side, like Chaignots, and very different to the south side.” From sand and gravel and white clay, the topsoil 50–60cm (20–24 inches) deep. “When it rains, it gets very wet—the rain is held in the layers and the tractor can sink and get stuck. But it is better now, with climate change.” This is succulent and juicy. Rounded, with a looser texture than the Damodes. Very exotic notes on the finish. It is easy and fruity. I prefer the keen Damodes. 2026–35. 92
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Perrières
Reserved. Pure and straight, with well-defined edges. Channeled palate. Dark and tight, with a crisp bite and snap of bitter, dark-chocolate freshness to the finish. Racy. Minty chocolate. 2027–35. 94
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Rue de Chaux
The parcel was planted in 1936, when Jean Chauvenet was born. The climat is 2.5ha (6 acres) in total, of which Chauvenet has 10%, and there are seven owners. Apparently, there was a tall wall along the side of this vineyard by the road 25 years ago, before the owners of the building on the other side of the road had it removed to open up the view—since when Christophe has had problems with the flowering here because of the wind. “The berries are always very small and ripe and the tannins are silky. It makes a true Nuits-St-Georges, with the same fragrance and structure each year,” muses Christophe.
The 2023 is smooth onto the palate and ripples with dark, silky elegance. Fine tannin, with a rich chocolate note on the finish. 2027–35. 94
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Vaucrains
Seductive, svelte wine, with dark-chocolate depth. Streamed with freshness. This also has an “After Eight,” minty freshness to the finish. A ripple of satin to the texture. This is certainly among my favorite three Nuits this vintage. Really rather sophisticated. Lovely, sleek, long finish. 2027–35+. 95–96
DOMAINE DU CLOS FRANTIN (ALBERT BICHOT)
One of Albert Bichot’s six estates. Bichot owns more than 100ha (250 acres), in addition to the négociant business. There are 9.5ha (23.5 acres) in this estate, which is certified organic. Bichot’s technical director, Matthieu Mangenot, remarked, “Agility was the most important thing in managing this vintage.” Bichot rented two cool rooms and were glad they did, for the fruit came in quickly and could be cooled overnight for sorting the following morning. All the reds were 100% destemmed, as they were not confident in the ripeness of the stems. The temperature of the fermentation for the reds was slightly cooler than usual, but joint technical director Cyrille Jacquelin says the extraction method was the same. They did, however, cut back on the aging time in oak, from 14–16 months, to 12–13 months. Even the top-end red wines were bottled in January 2025, and the proportion of new oak has been reduced by 10–15%. “The higher alcohol is more extractive. We wanted to step back and keep the fruit,” explained Matthieu.
Nuit-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Malconsorts
There is super-juicy fruit and generosity to this full-bodied wine. Sumptuous depth of plum-ripe fruit, balanced with sufficient freshness, which imbues this wine with some energy. Velvety tannins complete the picture, and the finish has a lift of herbal freshness that carries nicely. 2026–33. 92
CHÂTEAU GRIS (ALBERT BICHOT)
Another of Bichot’s properties, and a monopole. Château Gris is a 3.4ha (8.4-acre) walled premier cru in the lieu-dit of Les Crots in Nuit-St-Georges, producing red and white wine. I always enjoy walking through this rather wonderful, steeply sloped, east-facing vineyard, planted on broad terraces.
Nuits-St-Georges Château Gris Premier Cru (Monopole)
Ripe red-cherry fruit on the nose and palate, not overly rich. With sweet almond notes, it is deliciously reminiscent of Bakewell tart. I like the fine-textured tannins and the slippery talc chalkiness, which sweeps along, adding freshness to the ripe fruit. It flows into a soft-salt finish. 2026–32. 92
DOMAINE DU COUVENT
I met with Paul Chéron, who is working with his younger brother and father Philippe at this domaine based in Nuits-St-Georges, which was created partly from vineyards rented to the former Domaine des Varoilles, which joined 4ha (10 acres) of Chambolle, Vougeot, and Nuits already worked from 2011 by Philippe Chéron. Further vineyards have been acquired, including most recently, in 2021, a red and white parcel in Marsannay and some Chambolle premier cru Feusselottes. There have been small exchanges with Domaines Faiveley and Pousse d’Or. The estate is now 10.5ha (26 acres) in total.
After a double sorting, the grapes have a cold-soak with a gentle pump-over. Pigeage and remontage daily to start, before moving to remontage and, where necessary, rack-and-return. The Chérons like to use whole-bunch for fruit from clay soils, for greater freshness. “We tried it on fruit from limestone soils (Clos du Roy, for example) and we didn’t like it.” The wine is kept at 30ºC (86ºF) after fermentation for four or five days. “It softens the tannins and will reduce any bitterness from the end of fermentation. In 2023, the press regime was quite special—not pressing too much, only up to 0.7 bar [it is usually 1 bar]. We didn’t want to extract too much, either.” This was not so much to reduce the risk of taking anything green from the fruit, but for logistical reasons. The winery was full, as some of the yields were at the limit allowed by the appellation. Because of the gentle press, only 10–15 days was needed to settle and remove most of the lees and sediment. “We like to move the wine clean into the barrels, as we do not want to rack during the aging.” After racking at the end of the élevage, the wine settles in tank for about a month before bottling. The first of the reds were bottled before the end of 2024. Philippe Chéron used to filter the reds, but Paul thinks he may not.
“I feel that the structure will make these wines enjoyable young,” says Paul. The dark fruit and structure of the 2023s here reminds me of the 2018 vintage.
White
Marsannay Les Longeroies
From a 0.32ha (0.8-acre) parcel bought in 2021. It is the first parcel to be harvested, and has lots of clay in the soil, which brings the richness to the wine. In 2023, it was 14% ABV, with a pH of 3.4. Whole-bunch pressed, with no added SO2 at that stage, but a little during the settling, over two days. The fermentation starts in tank before continuing in older oak—one 600-liter barrel and a couple of 228-liter barrels. SO2 is added again only at racking before bottling. The cellar is very cold—11ºC (52ºF)—and the MLF was late in 2023. A candied-lime and pineapple aroma to a generous, rounded palate. Rich texture. “No bâtonnage, as the wine is already rich.” It finishes fresh enough, though: “The acidity was actually not too low—TA of 3.4g/l.” 2026–30. 86
Red
Marsannay Clos du Roy
From a plot bought in 2021, at the top of the climat where the topsoil is thin over the limestone. Half of the plot may need replanting, as it wasn’t well-nourished. Bright, red fruit, the slightly strict tannins bringing freshness and some tension. Straight. Crisp and slightly saline. Among my favorite wines here. 2025–30. 87
Chambolle-Musigny 40 Ouvrées
From 12 parcels in nine climats, at the bottom, middle, and top of the village. 100% destemmed. Worked by Philippe Chéron since 2011. This has soft tannins up-front; smooth, generous, juicy, and rounded. An appealing Chambolle. The Creux Baissants, a north-facing parcel on limestone, must be responsible for the attractive, salty freshness and some strictness on the finish. A good example. 2026–32. 88
Chambolle-Musigny Clos de l’Orme
Philippe Chéron always vinified this parcel separately. The very old vines include some from the 1930s. 50% whole-bunch. Rich, summer-fruit aroma to a succulent palate. A richer, deeper texture to this Chambolle, with good density of fruit. It’s quite punchy for Chambolle, with robust tannic matter on the finish. 2027–33. 88
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Feusselottes
From a parcel that came as an exchange with Pousse d’Or, after giving up 0.2ha (0.5 acre) of Charmes-Chambertin—low-yielding vines that produced only two barrels—for 0.42ha (1 acre) of Feuselottes—which makes eight barrels. The vines are in good shape and there was a regular yield even in 2024. 100% destemmed. Super-juicy, generous, and soft up-front. Plenty of ripe, raspberry fruit on the palate, while it has more grip and austerity and a colder tension and bite on the finish. “We have been making this wine for only three years, but already we see the same character. This is easy to make—it all comes together quite naturally.” 2027–35. 93
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Murgers
This 0.2ha (0.5-acre) parcel has the oldest vines of the estate. 100% whole-bunch—partly for practical reasons, as it is a small cuvée and it is necessary to have sufficient volume in the concrete tanks. “The pH here is the highest, but the whole-bunch brings some freshness [even though it will increase the pH] and we do more extraction, more pigeage here.” Just 25% new oak. Very sweet aroma. Expressive pink aromatics on the palate, too. An exotic character, soft in the middle, then a herbal, stalky bite at the end. It doesn’t taste very like Murgers to me. It’s slightly bizarre, but it’s ripe and open-textured and soft on the palate, so will appeal to some. 2027–35. 88
Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux
From two parcels. One is east-facing, above Cros Parantoux, so well-exposed, but cooler because of the altitude and the proximity to the forest. The other is above Brûlée and turns to be more north-facing. “It is difficult to work because of the slope. All the fruit is destemmed, as it is mainly limestone here. My father really liked Henri Jayer’s wine—and if you are right next to Clos Parantoux you have to destem!” says Paul. I like the lively energy and freshness. The nose and palate are ripe cherry. Straight and trim and light-bodied. There is a lively, salty note to the finish and a more delicate, crisp edge to the tannins here. Stylish. I like this. 2026–33. 88–89
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Couvent (Monopole)
From a 0.3ha (0.75-acre) clos in the heart of the village, which is almost the garden of Paul’s parents’ house. Vines from the 1960s as well as younger plantings. 100% destemmed, and they don’t extract much here. A light-bodied Gevrey. Juicy and slightly spicy. A little tart. Slim. A snap to the finish. I prefer the Marsannay. 2025–28. 85
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Meix des Ouches (Monopole)
From a 1ha (2.47-acre) parcel in a chilly spot, due to cold air from the combe, which can produce around 5,000 bottles. Normally the fruit has been destemmed, but they initially made two cuvées in 2023 and one was 80% whole-bunch: “We liked it.” So, they blended the two, for about 40% whole-bunch overall (and in 2024 it was 70%). Despite the cool exposure, this has a ripe, almost baked-cherry aroma. It has the feel of 2018 about it. Slightly robust tannins. I prefer Les Sevrées. 2026–30. 86–87
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Sevrées
From a 0.23ha (0.57-acre) parcel planted in the 1950s, so low-yielding, old vines. It was acquired in 2013, and it has taken a little while to get it into shape. 50% whole-bunch, as the parcel is largely clay. A spicy, peppercorn aroma, with a touch of mint. Juicy and generous. Ripe cherry; slightly grip to the tannins and licorice to finish. 2026–30. 87
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Champonnets
All the fruit was destemmed, because the climat has a northly exposure and they were not sure about the ripeness of the stems, especially from the section that was part of an exchange with Faiveley. On this part, the material is not quite as good as that which came though Varoilles. “I do not find it easy to make. I got this only in 2020, so I am still learning.” Almost the last parcel they harvested, and it is pretty exotic, despite that north slope. Dark purple aromas envelop the palate. Licorice, but with a touch of burly grip. It has a robust and scatter-gun feel. 2027–35. 90
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru La Romanée (Monopole)
The forest and the wind from the combe affect the mesoclimate here. The forest contains the wind but shades the vineyard. Sun hits the vines one hour later than in Lavaux St-Jacques and leaves it an hour earlier—not a bad thing in 2023. The soil here is limestone and the clay is very sandy, so the Chérons are careful of erosion, keeping grass cover as long as possible, until flowering, when it is mowed. When Paul’s grandfather bought it in 1964, half of the parcel was planted to Pinot Blanc, and “maybe at the time they thought it would be good” (it could be good now). His father replanted to Pinot Noir. Destemmed. Finely textured and light. It is trim and slim. I do like this wine, although it is not very Gevrey in character. Airy wine, for it whistles on the palate. Neat, tight, straight, and intense, with an attractive austerity and chalky nip. There is aromatic ripeness because of the exposure. It reminds me of Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Cras, which can have this ripeness and this austerity. “Always the last parcel we harvest.” Salty on the finish. One of my favorites here. 2027–38. 94
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Aux Mazoyères
From a breezy parcel of 0.38ha (1 acre), right at the top, just under Latricières, on a slight slope—the effect the Combe Grisard—alluvial downwash over the limestone. The vines were planted in the 1940s and 1970s. All destemmed. Fragrant, rose-petal aroma and a smooth, silky texture. It’s certainly ripe, and maybe even a touch jammy at the moment, which I am sure will fade. Finely textured. An undercut of salinity, which carries to a lovely, long, fragrant, and saline finish. It is 14% ABV, but the TA is not bad, at 4.1g/l. More important, it tastes fresh. 2028–40. 95
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Aux Origines
From three parcels, one in the bottom part, near the R74, and two at the top. One has very old vines, the fruit from which is kept as whole bunches. They make three cuvées initially, then the best blend they can, selling off what they do not want. “In 2020, the bottom part was good and we used a lot.” But in 2023, that cuvée was sold off. No press wine was added in this vintage, when the wine comes only from the top of the vineyard. It was picked at the beginning of the harvest, as it always gets very ripe. An attractive floral character to this lithe, elegant, and finely textured Vougeot. It has a crispness and tension. Fresh and energetic. Not rich at all. It is 13.8% ABV but feels quite airy, with a nice, long, and lively finish. 2028–40. 94–95
EDOUARD DELAUNAY
A good performance in red from Laurent Delaunay this year—quite a feat, given that he purchases all the fruit. He remarked, “The ripeness was pretty good, but not perfect, which was a good thing as it gave us a good level of acidity.” He adds that in the winery, “the maceration was a bit shorter. It was important not to overextract. This is not the character of the vintage.”
He finds the 2023s “have no sign of the overripeness of 2020. They have an interesting freshness.” He plans to bottle the reds from February to May 2025. “Some have tannins to soften, and we may fine these.” He feels it is “a surprisingly good vintage when you think of the record output for Burgundy—another sign of climate change, but also how well and how quickly we can manage vintages that are so different and yet still convey the terroir character.”
I feel this house is becoming more precise in expressing terroir—in 2023 particularly—whereas previously the wines seemed to me to be rather dominated by a house style. I generally prefer the reds to the whites. There were 27 wines in the portfolio this year, of which I have selected the best whites and included all the reds. I particularly liked the Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Crots and Beaune Premier Cru Grèves. Good Hautes-Côtes de Nuits in both colors, too.
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Les Mont
The Les Mont vineyard lies above the premier cru vineyards in Premeaux-Prissey. It is a good site, and Delaunay is not alone in making wine from here. The 2023 is a rich Hautes-Côtes, savory to start, but mid-palate there is crystalized lemon sweetness offset with appealing, sappy, chalky notes. It has impressive weight for an Hautes-Côtes. 2025–28. 84
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Les Lares
Light and sparky, with a bite of white pith. A touch of grapefruit mid-palate and cool stone to finish. Stylish. 2025–27. 84
Santenay Les Champs Claudes
This has more body, tension, and vigor than the St-Romain. It’s quite strident, having heft and a vein of earthy minerality. Really quite good. Punches into a firm finish, and above its weight for a village wine. 2026–32. 87
St-Aubin Premier Cru Les Champlots
Creamy yet fresh, the lightly rounded palate having an appealing lemon-curd, ice-cream feel and finishing on a lightly pithy note, albeit a little short for a premier cru. I find this St-Aubin premier cru more interesting than the Chassagne and Puligny village wines. 2025–29. 87
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Ripe, exotic, pineapple aroma. Generous and punchy. Straight and intense. Quite a powerful, chalky finish. 2026–35. 93
Red
Beaune Premier Cru Grèves
Bright and light, with plentiful red fruit, this sweeps gently across the palate on silky tannins. Delaunay has captured the more fragrant, composed, and elegant expression of Beaune in this ripe vintage. Very typically Grèves, and while perhaps not as intense as the best examples from this climat, it’s not far off. Polished. 2025–32. 92–93
Pommard Premier Cru Chaponnières
Full, punchy, dense, and slightly rugged. A roughly hewn wine. Plenty of personality, but a little short on sophistication and length for a premier cru. 2026–32. 88–89
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Les Dames Huguettes
A fresh and fruity blueberry aroma. This skips brightly across the palate. The tannins are crunchy, and the acidity is fresh. Nicely balanced and uncomplicated. It’s snappy and super-inviting. 2025–28. 84
Marsannay En Combereau
From a parcel at 300m (980ft) on the south side of the village. A spicy, rich, forest-fruit aroma into an opulently fruity palate. Ripe, with soft-pile tannin. Lots of spice on the palate, too, before it becomes a little austere and salty to finish. Impressive Marsannay, punching above its weight. 2026–32. 87
Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes
From four parcels all below and on the north side of the village. Very ripe, baked-cherry fruit on both nose and palate. I find the tannins a little rustic and there’s a slightly bitter/burned note to finish. 2026–30. 86
Morey-St-Denis Premier Cru Les Millandes
An expressive note of cherries and toasted almonds. Juicy strike and splashy fruit on the lightly rounded mid-palate. It gurgles. Expressive. But it’s not all fruit, as there is also an attractive, light grip of ripe but firm tannin. Decent intensity and finish. A very sound premier cru. 2026–34. 92–93
Nuits-St-Georges Vieilles Vignes
Spicy, ripe, red-cherry aroma. Bright, crunchy fruit up-front, a sappy and zesty mid-palate, and a lively, morello-cherry piquancy to finish. Plenty of energy here. A rather pretty Nuits village wine. 2026–30. 87
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Crots
Ripe, raspberry aroma. Silky and succulent glide into the palate. Lightly sumptuous and lightly rounded, with a delicate depth of fruit, precisely balanced with freshness. The finish is well-sustained with an almond-kernel bitterness. Delightful. 2026–35. 92–93
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Didiers Cuvée Flagon
Slightly baked fruit aroma on the nose, but the palate is super-juicy. Undoubtedly ripe up-front, this is generous and full. Rich, lush tannin and quite deep. It saunters with confidence across the palate to a well-sustained, supple finish, which has a fresh, earthy note. Not bad at all. 2027–35. 93–94
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Murgers
Bright, juicy, and spicy. Quite simple, light-bodied, and easy, if a little short for a premier cru. 2026–28. 86
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les St-Georges
A black-velvet purr on the palate—this is sophisticated. A seamless blend of forest fruit, svelte tannin, and morello-cherry, sappy freshness, which carries into a persistent and slightly tart finish. 2027–35. 93
Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
A blend of parcels from around the village. 50% whole-bunch. Blackberry, spicy aroma; smooth and juicy, with a hint of chocolate. A neatly contained example, with modest intensity and a gently smoky finish. Nice, if not exciting. 2026–31. 86–87
Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
From a parcel at the top of the slope. Dark, sweet, cassis fruit, with some herbal notes, thyme and orange, and yet this has no whole-bunch. A smooth slide into the palate on rich fruit and velvety tannin. There is density in the middle, a core nugget of ripe fruit, and here it flexes lithe muscle before extending into a firm and assured finish, with plenty of verve. 2027–35+. 95
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
A mixture of Charmes and Mazoyères. Red summer fruit, plump and succulent, with attractive intensity, layering, and refinement. Perfume delicately envelops the palate, which stretches into an elegant, streamlined, and just slightly shimmery, mineral finish. Surprisingly refined, given the inclusion of the Mazoyères parcel. 2027–35. 95
Vougeot Premier Cru Les Cras
Uber-spicy and rich. The vines on this limestone climat clearly caught the full blast of the sun in 2023, and I find it overripe. Deep and dense, this feels heady and slightly baked, coupled with the austerity of tannin you expect from a limestone soil, so it seems a awkward for now. I am not sure the 25% whole-bunch works. Leave it time to simmer down. 2027–35. 89
Vougeot Premier Cru Les Petits Vougeots
This Petits Vougeots is much more successful than the Cras, neatly blending ripe summer fruit with chalky freshness. Slippery, chalky tannins carry that freshness to the finish. Plenty of vivacity to this wine. Jolly good. 2027–35. 93+
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
From two parcels—Les Petits Maupertuis, a well-located parcel by the wall, and Les Dix Journaux, mid-slope on more clay. 60% whole-bunch. Ripe, wild-berry aroma, quite broad and generous, but not a big, burly Vougeot. This retains levity and freshness. The slightly chunky tannins have a touch of grip but are ripe. Only modest intensity for a grand cru. 2027–35. 93
DOMAINE FAIVELEY
Technical director Jérôme Flous arranged a green-harvest from the end of June / early July for three weeks, and commented to me on the size, weight, and number of the bunches. “Even after the green-harvest, the crop was 50hl/ha for Pinot Noir—and without, it would have been 80hl/ha. We removed more than one third of the bunches. And in some places, we took half. It is exceptional to destroy such a large number of bunches. We had more on the ground last year than in the vat in 2024.” It was a more normal crop for Chardonnay.
Harvest was September 8–20. Jérôme recalls that it was “crazy hot,” so they started picking at 7am and finished at noon. After 10am, the boxes went into the cold room, which has a huge capacity for 600 cases, to be sorted the following morning, which was efficient as the sorters could start early. Just 2–3% was eliminated at sorting—some oidium, dried berries, and botrytis.
“Big bunches and big berries and the crop was large. The high volume is the key to this vintage. That’s why it is a juicy, perfumed, and elegant vintage—2023 will be easy-drinking, like 2021; while 2022 is clean and the perfect vintage, more concentrated, rich and ripe, with more structure.
Erwan Faiveley chose to show me only grands crus and a couple of premiers crus. All the grands crus have 50% new oak and 50% one-year-old barrels.
I also tasted the 2017 and 2019 Gevrey Cazetiers with Jérôme. I found the 2017 a little fresher than the 2023; crisp and vibrant, with red-fruit freshness, this is delightful and certainly bears some resemblance to the 2023. It is drinking very well now, and I feel the 2023 will be just as open and accessible. The 2019 is the opposite—very opulent and plush. Cazetiers is a warm terroir, and in a warm vintage with a small crop, it is richly ripe and satin-textured, quite unlike the 2023.
Jérôme considers the 2023 vintage to be “drinkable and crisp, like 2011, but 2011 is less ripe and rich. 2023 is not as rich as 2009. So, maybe a mix of 2009 and 2011.”
White
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Champ Gains
Super-aromatic, with a touch of greengage and sumptuous richness. There is a balancing phenolic bite to the finish. The warm and stony terroir gives this generosity, while it’s probably the lees (at a density of 300 NTUs) that give the bitter note to the finish. I like it. Jérôme will fine it, however. “I always fine for texture in the whites—especially when they are in a fatter and richer style,” he remarked. 2026–33. 92
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
From a parcel on the Ladoix side. 50% new oak—and it carries it well. “The key to this vintage for the whites was to use a lot of new barrels,” said Jérôme. What a ripe and juicy, fruity palate. Lively vibrancy and energy and silky to finish. 2027–37. 94–95
Red
Mercurey Premier Cru Clos du Roy
Aromatic, soft, summer-fruit aroma, then on the palate, ripe cherry, with smooth tannins and a light, fruity finish. Very good texture. Charming. 2025–30. 86
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Porêts St-Georges
Soft, red aromas, and as inviting on the palate. Juicy and generous and fresh to boot. It has a lively finish. 2026–32. 92
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Cazetiers
Silky tannins, pure and elegant, with a silvery cut of minerality. Firm but fine-textured tannins, a light touch to the structure. Ripe, red-berry fruit. It has a well-sustained mineral finish. Elegant and beautifully balanced. 2027–35. 95
Corton Clos de Corton Grand Cru
Supple, rounded, and juicy Corton, with generous dark fruit and a full body. It is quite rich, seductively spicy, and a little exotic on the finish. 2027–35. 94–95
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Generous, full, rounded first impression, with a supple ripple and juiciness mid-palate. Follows through to a sturdier, grippy and punchy finish, which is quite earthy. It is a blend of more classic Vougeot pugilism with a lighter touch, which makes sense, as it comes from two larger parcels at the bottom and one in the middle of the Clos. “I am very gentle with the extraction. I use one large tank and therefore less extraction, while for Echézeaux, it is the opposite, so I have two small tanks. This way, I adapt to the terroir.” 2028–38. 94
Echézeaux En Orveaux Grand Cru
From white-marl soil planted in 1958. Ripe, red-currant fruit aroma to a silky, rippling palate. Pure and precise and straight. Neat edges, crisp, delicate tannin, and a cool stream to finish, with a slightly herbal, tarragon note at the end. No whole-bunch—just the cool of the combe going into this perfume. Delightful. 2027–38. 96
Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
A red rose-petal, floral note, with light strawberry aromas on the front-palate. Pure, delicate, and wafting. Taffeta-texture tannins at first, but then more austerity; you feel the sharper, fine, chalky minerality and salinity on the finish, which is persistent. A thought-provoking wine. 2027–40. 97
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Rich and exuberant fruit on the front-palate, then compact and dense through the mid-palate. This is battening down, but the finish is long and has plentiful fruit. Concentration and plenty of staying power. 2028–40. 96
Musigny Grand Cru
50% whole-bunches. One new, 150-liter barrel. “I have to be confident in the pH,” said Jérôme. “To me, it would be stupid to use whole-bunch and then to acidify. For a small-tank fermentation, it is better to have bunches for the extraction and then use 100% new oak. I feel the whole-bunch is a more successful match.” Super-intense yet delicate and pure. Silken texture. Aniseed notes. Fine-cut and well-defined. Streamlined, focused finish. This is a big step up in intensity and length, with a hint of mint on the end. One of the best wines I tasted this vintage. 2028–40. 98–99
DOMAINE HENRI GOUGES
They began the harvest here in Chaines Carteaux on September 9—the wine was already in bottle in October 2024—and finished in Les Dames Huguettes on the 19th. The fruit was 100% destemmed. Gone are the days when I tasted in the dining room—today, Gouges has a smart, modern tasting room. Gregory was away, so I tasted with Viviana Jaimon from Argentina, who is a trained enologist and winemaker. Although she is not involved in the winemaking at Gouges, if you make an appointment to taste with her, it will be fun and informative. Although all the grapes are destemmed at Gouges, these are very aromatic wines in 2023, and the texture of the tannins is light and fine.
Viviana finds that visitors love the 2018s: “People are in love with the 2018. It was the beginning of the sweetness in Burgundy.” I tasted the 2023 Les St-Georges against the 2018—and there is indeed so much ripeness in 2018; the fruit is black and cooked and the tannin coarser. The 2023 is much prettier.
I enjoyed the whites at Gouges and tasted a few recent vintages. The 2021 Bourgogne is colder and sharper than the 2023, more citrus and cutting; with this acidity, it will age further, and it’s only a regional wine. I liked the “lighter” vintages. The 2021 was a notch up for terroir definition on the ripe 2022, but not so dissimilar to the 2023, although there is less acidity in the 2023. The 2022 Perrière was very rich and concentrated and less mineral then the 2023. It is showy and needs time to reveal the terroir.
White
Bourgogne Pinot Blanc
From a parcel close to Les Dames Huguettes A ripe and spicy aroma. Slightly exotic aromas on the palate, yet it is straight, light, and stony. White pepper and pith. Sappy, fresh finish. Fermented in vat and aged in barrels for 12 months. I love this Bourgogne. 2025–30. 86
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru La Perrière
This climat lies above Porrets. It is also planted to Pinot Blanc, with a long history. Savory, ripe, and rich, with a stony sapidity, while the 2022 is much richer and glossier and more concentrated, with greengage lushness. I like the lighter, straight, and stony, mineral palate of the 2023, which is also saltier to finish. 2027–35. 92–93
Red
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Les Dames Huguettes
Vibrant, red-fruit aroma and a lively, bright, and springy palate. A crunch to the tannins. So pretty and so drinkable. 2025–28. 84
Nuits-St-Georges
All six parcels for this are on the south side of the village, mostly toward the bottom, but it also includes some premier cru Crots from higher up, which maybe be adding the freshness. 10% new oak here. There is red forest fruit on this light and delicate Nuits, which is pretty and vibrant, with crisp tannin. I also tasted the 2017, which was quite close in style, although the 2017 has more acidity and is a bit longer than 2023. 2026–32. 87–88
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Chaignots
Juicy and fresh. Attractively splashing fruit, with a bright snap of tannin that brings energy to the palate and to the finish. I like the energy and the light touch. 2027–32. 91–92
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Chênes-Cartaux
From the south side above Les St-Georges, on quite a steep slope with thin topsoil and plenty of little stones. Ripe aromatics—dark forest fruit and exotic notes—yet here again Gregory Gouges shows his light touch, with a fine, light, crisp note of sappy tannin. Expressively aromatic on the finish, with notes of the spice market. It’s very ripe but not at all heavy. 2026–32. 93
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Porrets St-Georges
From 3.5ha (8.5 acres) of Clos des Porrets. The wine had been racked when I tasted it and was to be bottled in November 2024. 50% new oak, which is more than usual and seems a bit much. Quite tight, with plentiful black fruit, a licorice note, marked grip to the tannins, and black soot and spice to finish. 2026–32. 92–93
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Pruliers
25% new oak. Exotic, spicy red fruit on the nose, then on the palate, juicy, open, and opulent. A generous and looser crochet texture. A slightly sumptuous, airy, and rounded wine, but with a light touch, and I like the fact that this wine focuses on the aromas, which are quite jammy but appealing. (I tasted 2019, which is sweet, rich, and very heady; very good, but much more concentrated by comparison with the 2023, and it needs time, while the 2023 could be opened after a year in bottle). 2026–32. 93
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les St-Georges
A satin-textured sweep into the palate. This is a level up in concentration, intensity, and sophistication. This glides on a richly shimmering, supple stroke to the finish, which is well-sustained and rather sophisticated. Fine, sleek, textural wine. This could almost be grand cru. 2028–38. 95–96
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Vaucrains
Aromatic richness, a touch of baked cherry pie, and super-fragrant on the palate, too. Finely textured, with a thread of freshness and a light bitterness to the finish; black-chocolate freshness, which carries on the finish. An elegant, rather floaty Nuits, with cocoa to finish. 2028–35. 94
DOMAINE THIBAULT LIGER-BELAIR
Thibault Liger-Belair did not do a green-harvest in 2023, preferring to do a selection in the vineyard and a double sorting on the table in the winery. “I have an average of 41hl/ha in 2023, and had 38hl/ha in 2022,” he said.
He used plenty of whole bunches in 2023, removing the stem from the bunch for the grands crus, but despite the whole bunches, he didn’t tweak the acidity. “I love chaptalizing, but I don’t like to add tartaric—I never look at the pH.” He likes to decant for some time before barreling down, because the wine ages long in barrel. There is certainly a lot of new oak on the wines, all the way from regional, to grand cru. Thibault makes his own barrels, and great attention is paid to matching the wines to specific forests and to a range of toasts—from no toast at all, to a light toast. On the Hautes-Côtes Clos du Prieuré, for example, he uses 40% new oak from sandy soil in Fontainebleu, where he likes the tall, thinner trees, which give him fine-gained wood that he uses to add to the mid-palate; while in his Charmes-Chambertin, he uses blond oak to stretch the finish. He keeps the wines in barrel beyond the equinox after the second winter, so they should certainly mellow. There are many cuvées. I found some a little light, but there are also some very good wines here. The Richebourg is beautifully scented.
He compares 2023 with 2017 and 2016: “Like 2017 but with more acidity—the acidity of 2016. So, between 2017 and 2016. But it is more powerful than 2017. Ripe but quite fresh. 2017 was a little smoother than 2023 at this early stage.”
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Le Clos du Prieuré
A parcel in Arcenant that Thibault bought in 2004; a south-facing, 40% slope with marly soil. 20% whole-bunch. This has lively, red-berry fruit and good tension, as well as good body and depth for an Hautes-Côtes. A lot of oak, but it works here, giving punchy tannin and grip. It’s also very zippy. 2027–30. 84
Nuits-St-Georges La Charmotte
From the north side of the village under Bousselots; a soil with 50cm (inces) of red and brown clay over degraded limestone. An exotic, purple aroma to a soft and juicy palate. Light and gentle. 2026–30. 85–86
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les St-Georges
“This was always so powerful during the fermentation. We had 35 barrels in 2023 and three in 2024.” He made three vats; two had destemmed fruit and the third had 70% whole-bunch, as there was not enough fruit for the vat without. So, total 20% whole-bunch overall, and Thibault says the blend is by far the best. Dark fruit, with suede-soft tannin. There is smooth muscle and power. Plenty of freshness on the end of the palate and good persistence. 2028–35. 94–95
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
This has 20% whole-bunch and 80% new oak. “I have changed the vinification,” Thibault explained. “It has taken me 18 years to understand Vougeot. I used to be very careful after the first week of fermentation, but in 2018 I did ten punch-downs rather than five—we have to take the tannins and wrap the fruit around it. Since 2019, I have been doing 15 punch-downs. I found the tannins are more integrated with more punch-down. Now it is more elegant and less rustic, especially from the 2020 vintage.” When Thibault told me he did so much pigeage, I was expecting a monster… But actually, it is not a big, burly Vougeot. Floral aroma, sweet and silky onto the palate. I like the supple texture and am surprised that it has so much charm. There is lovely nugget of rich fruit on the mid-palate, then it stretches out into the finish. 2029–40. 95
Richebourg Grand Cru
From vines planted in 1934 and 1936. 30% whole-bunch and 80% new oak. “We never know if we are looking more for elegance or for structure, so I just have to follow my intuition. The 2023 Richebourg is more approachable than the ’20, ’21, or ’22.” Notably perfumed. Rose petal envelops the palate, which is elegant and finely textured. Very intense, carrying to an excellent, floral finish. Lingering, pure, and scented. 2028–40. 97
THIBAULT LIGER-BELAIR SUCCESSEURS
Thibault has several Chambolles under this négoce label. The land belongs to one of his employees, whom he pays to manage his own vineyard and Thibault then purchases all the grapes.
Chambolle-Musigny Beaux Bruns
From the section of this climat classified as village, in the triangle below the premier cru. I am not sure if I have ever tasted the village section as a single cuvée. This has darker fruit and is earthier. Somewhat chewy, fuller and denser. You feel the clay. 2027–32. 86
Chambolle-Musigny Les Fouchères
From a parcel with very shallow red soil, only 50–60cm (20–24 inches) deep, over limestone, at the top of the amphitheater of village vineyards, where the exposure is northeast. There are three barrels of this cuvée, which is my favorite of the three village Chambolles. It’s upright on the nose and has red and vibrant fruit, crunchy texture, plenty of energy, and a touch of sapidity at the end. 2027–32. 87
Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes
A blend of three parcels, the largest on the Morey side with deeper soil, but all the vines were planted from 1951 to 1958. Succulent and juicy, fullish and rounded, with a crisp bite of tannin and a spicy twist from the whole-bunch. 2026–32. 86–87
Corton Grand Cru Les Renardes
Thibault has bought fruit and managed this parcel since 2005; rows that are 200m (ft) long, two thirds on limestone, one third on clay, but the soil at the top is deeper. He uses whole bunches and tells me this is because of the level of calcium in the stems, due to the Oxfordian limestone here. Nicely rounded, but not a big, full-bodied Corton—the ripe and generous fruit is rather more contained and restrained—undercut with a sappy juiciness, and spice carries the finish. 2027–35. 93
MARCHAND-TAWSE
The estate is managed organically, and Pascal Marchand likes, where possible, to buy fruit from organically certified producers. As Pascal was unwell when I visited, his wife Amandine Terrier-Marchand stepped in to conduct the tasting. She comes from a winemaking family in Davayé in the Mâconnais. “As soon as we purchase a vineyard, we immediately start working the vines organically, to gain the certification,” she told me. The winery has been certified since 2019. On the domaine wines, the label states, “Vignes de Familie Tawse.” There are more than 50 cuvées (so I needed to be highly selective with my notes) and 155,000 bottles in 2023. Some 8ha (20 acres) of domaine land represents 70% of production, half of which is in the Côte de Beaune. The domaine is based in Nuits-St-Georges but owns no vineyards here. From 2024, however, Pascal will manage La Petite Charmotte, a village parcel in Nuits; it has been worked organically, so this fits in well with the ethos here. Some of the domaine parcels are plowed using a horse, by a man from the Jura who brings his horses each year and sleeps in his truck.
The harvest began on September 6 and lasted three weeks, starting with Volnay Fremiets. Most of the green-harvesting was done in Beaune climats and Savigny Lavières. No green-harvest in the Côte de Nuits, but “it was easy to sort out the unripe or dry berries,” says Amandine. Less whole-bunch than usual because of the large crop. “An amazing, juicy vintage, and the reds are gaining in structure—they’re now more structured than at at the beginning of the élevage.”
Côte de Beaune
Beaune Premier Cru Le Clos du Roi
A domaine wine, from some 90-year-old vines, picked on the second day of the harvest. High pH, so no whole-bunch. Ripe and a touch jammy. Warm, strawberry fruits, and an open palate with light tannins. 2026–30. 88
Beaune Premier Cru Les Teurons
A domaine wine, from 60-year-old vines. 30% new oak. Acidified a touch. All the Beaune wines are destemmed. Red and blue fruit, the straightest and most energetic and longest of the three, with a smoky and flinty note to the finish. This is the one to age longest. 2027–35. 91–92
Beaune Premier Cru Les Tuvilians
A domaine wine, from 50- to 70-year-old vines. This was the first parcel they bought in 2011. 25% new oak. This has more structure and oomph. It also has the highest alcohol at the domaine, at 14.5%. 2026–30. 89
Pommard
From Saussilles, on the border with Beaune. Picked at the end of harvest as it takes time to ripen. “This parcel is planted with Chardonnay, too. A beautiful vineyard with old vines,” says Amandine. They buy the grapes. Destemmed. A touch of acidification. 25% new oak. Aromatic, red-raspberry fruit, with light, silky tannin. Delicate and pretty, with a light minerality to the finish. Jolly nice. 2026–30. 86
Savigny-lès-Beaune Premier Cru Les Lavières
A domaine wine. Half of the vines are 80 years old, and some are 30. There is normally some whole-bunch but not in 2023, when there were too many grapes for the vat. 20% new oak. A svelte and sweeping, alluring Savigny with a cool, smooth-mineral note through the ripe, red fruit. Good terroir expression. 2026–30. 91–92
Volnay Premier Cru Fremiets
A domaine wine, from above the wall at the bottom of the vineyard, on a white and stony soil. The first to be harvested. 100% destemmed. Expressive red berry. Sapidity and snap. Spiky. Crushed-glass tannin and a cool follow-through. 2027–35. 93
Côte de Nuits
Bourgogne Côte d’Or
From a large parcel near Nuits and a smaller one near Chambolle. A large cuvée of 50 barrels. 100% destemmed. Red fruit and red peppercorn. Fresh, crunchy. Bright. 2025–28. 80
Côtes de Nuits-Villages
The fruit comes from three growers in Comblanchien and Corgoloin. All destemmed. 10% new oak. This is sweetly fruity, maybe a touch on the jammy side, but so approachable, with nice acidity to finish and soft tannin. 2026–29. 83
Marsannay
From two lieux-dits, including Longeroies All destemmed. 10% new oak. This is super-supple, juicy, and generous, with ripe, red fruit and a supple finish. 2026–30. 85
Morey-St-Denis En Rue de Vergy
20% new oak. 60% whole-bunch. High-toned. Straight and floral, red rose-petal and mint aromas. Warm and cooler notes. Springs onto the palate. So bright, crisp, and nippy. And slightly salty to finish. 2027–32. 87
Nuits-St-Georges La Petite Charmotte
Pascal and Amandine are delighted to have a parcel they can work in Nuits, as they don’t have a domaine parcel. Bought grapes for the first two years. 60% whole-bunch. 30% new oak. Wild-berry fruit, then this is silky and really sweetly fruity, with a lively freshness to the finish. Lovely stretch for a village wine. 2027–32. 89
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Murgers
Just one barrel, one-year-old oak, and 80% whole-bunch. Dark-fruit aroma. Generous and rich, succulent and juicy. Muscle, yes, but well-balanced. Pascal has captured the balance well, the richness matched by the freshness from the whole-bunch. So difficult to do this with a one-barrel cuvée. 2027–32. 93
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Corvées Pagets
Made from purchased grapes, which are certified organic. Supple slide into the palate. A gentle Nuits up-front, with a very even and harmonious balance, showing good structure and really nice length. Good finish and aging potential. 2027–40. 94–95
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Perrières
Destemmed fruit. Only two barrels, neither new. Straight and grippy. Tight and neatly edged. Chalky on the finish. Sappy. It is savory and has tension. 2027–34. 93
Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Ronde
A domaine wine from several parcels. 15% whole-bunch. 15% new oak. A ripe and juicy Gevrey, with good concentration and an attractively firm structure. There is some sapidity with the sweetness on the finish. 2027–32. 87–88
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux-St-Jacques
A domaine wine from 60- to 90-year-old vines, plowed by horse. Destemmed. 35–40% new oak. So reductive. I like the finish, which has freshness and tension and saltiness. It is finely textured, crisp, and energetic. Long finish. 2027–35. 94
Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru
A domaine wine, 60% from old vines. 40% whole-bunch. Rich, glossy, and juicy on the attack. Punchy, powerful. Definitely some muscle, tannin, and concentration. Dark fruit, with a full and earthy finish. 2028–40. 95
DOMAINE HENRI NAUDIN-FERRAND
I visited Claire Naudin in June to speak about the Hautes-Côtes. She wasn’t keen for me to sample the 2023s from barrel, as she adds no SO2 before bottling, but she sent me away with a couple of bottles, including this charming wine, which I can sneak into the report.
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune
Strictly speaking, this isn’t a 2023—it’s a Non-Vintage blend of 2023 and 2022. Claire decided she didn’t like the tannins in the 2023 and blended. Well, the mélange is delightful, just bursting with deliciously ripe, raspberry and blueberry fruit, slightly plump, and the texture is super-soft, with a tiny nip of tannin at the end. What a charming, summery Hautes-Côtes, which leans into a fruity Beaune profile. The Hautes-Côtes meet here, but the dividing line is more municipal than terroir-driven. It’s simple but really moreish. Drinking now to 2026. 84
MAREY-LÈS-FUSSEY
DOMAINE THÉVENOT LE BRUN
Maurice and Anne Marie began bottling wine in the early 1960s. Sons Jean and Daniel developed the activity and refined the techniques. Nicolas, Daniel’s son, arrived at the estate in 2007 and took over management in 2009, continuing the work carried out by his father and uncle. His sister Hélène now manages the commercial side. The vines lie within a 2km (1.25-mile) radius of the estate and include Clos du Vignon, a 7ha (17-acre) hillside vineyard beside the Abbey of Lieu-Dieu des Champs, where the Cistercian community produced wine as early as the 12th century. Uprooted after phylloxera, this vineyard was rediscovered and 5ha (12 acres) replanted with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the 1960s and ’70s by Maurice Thévenot.
The domaine also has a few rows of Pinot Beurot, planted by Maurice in the 1970s. “The Hautes-Côtes terroir is particularly suited to this grape variety. It fully expresses its powerful aromas while maintaining good finesse,” says Nicolas.
Harvesting is by machine, with the exception of a small part of Clos Vignon for the red. “Our vineyards are low density with a higher fruit zone. With machine, we can choose the best moment. The selection is not bad and we have a sorting table.” For whites, the must is settled for 24 hours. Fermentation starts in tank then one third is moved to barrel at a specific gravity of 1.060. The Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Blanc from young-vine Chardonnay is softly round and generous, while the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Blanc, a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc, is sturdier and steelier.
Nicolas comments on the vintage: “2023 reds have the same freshness and balance as the 2017s, even though 2017 was not as ripe as 2023, but the balance is similar. The whites are maybe like the 2015s, as we had very low acidity in 2015, too, but the 2023s are fuller and richer than the 2015s.”
White
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Clos de Vignon
Some 1.5ha (acres) of the Clos de Vignon is planted in Chardonnay on the more limestone section; half was replanted in 2013. 70% oak barrels, about one third new. Citrus and peachy aroma. Juicy and straight, showing some reserve, tension, and depth. A smooth, sapid note to finish. 83.
Coteaux Bourguignons Pinot Beurot
The vines for this—across three south-facing plots in Morey-lès-Fussey—are actually in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, but because they are all Pinot Gris, the wine is classified as Coteaux Bourguignons. Aged in 100% new oak which, Nicolas says, matches well with the “aromatic power of the grape and doesn’t overpower it.” Nicolas adds that it will age seven years. Rich and spicy aroma. On the palate, ripe melon and ginger, fresh and ground. Some sappy new oak brings freshness, without which it might be a bit heavy. 2025–28. 82
Red
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune
From three parcels in the Fussey lieu-dit En Maimbey, on the very edge of the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune. Very high—at 445–470m (1,460–1,540ft)—the highest parcel classified in the Hautes-Côtes. One third is aged in barrel. Simple and juicy and bright. A light cherry fruit. Simple and fresh. Not bad at all. 2025–27. 80
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
From east-facing parcels in Marey-lès-Fussey (30-year-old vines) and Villers la Faye (15-year-old vines). Both pigeage and remontage. 13% ABV. It’s quite ripe. Half barrel, older oak, and half tank. Red-cherry fruit. Juicy and bright, with a light herbal spring. Crunchy, with a slight snap to the finish. I like the palate freshness, even though the acidity, based on the analysis, is rather low. 2025–27. 82
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Clos de Vignon
More upright and fresh than the Renards. The fruit is redder—ripe raspberry and strawberry on the nose, and more soft, summer fruit on the palate. Actually quite elegant, slender, and silky. Supple, with a delicate freshness. Very aromatic on the finish. What a pretty wine. 2025–30. 83
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Clos de Vignon La Cabotte
A selection of the best tanks are transferred to new oak and one-year-old barrels (from which I tasted) and there will be a further selection. Ultimately, it represents about 15% of the whole cuvée. This is more concentrated than the other Clos de Vignon cuvée. The oak is present—maybe a bit too much—but there is certainly more fullness, generosity, and richness of texture. 2026–30. 82
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Les Renards
From a south-facing, 2ha (5-acre) parcel in Marey-lès-Fussey, well-protected from the wind, with more clay than in Clos de Vignon. Planted in 1983. All in barrel and 15% new oak. Rounder and juicier than the previous wines. Some forest fruits, with a spicy quality. Slightly herbaceous tannins. Leafy notes to finish. 2025–28. 82
2023 Burgundy: Abundant variability
2023 Burgundy: A guide to the villages and vineyards
2023 Burgundy: Chablis with a sunny disposition
2023 Burgundy: Chablis tasting notes
2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Nuits—Marsannay and Fixin
2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Nuits—Gevrey-Chambertin
2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Nuits—Morey-St-Denis
