VOSNE-ROMANÉE
J&J ARCHAMBAUD
Jean-Philippe Archambaud is the grandson of François Gerbet of Vosne-Romanée, whose domaine was split up for his three daughters, including Marie-Odile, who is Jean-Philippe’s mother. Jean-Philippe makes eight cuvées from 5.35ha (13.2 acres), including the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits noted below, which comes from his third of a 10.5ha (26-acre) parcel above Vosne-Romanée, planted by his grandfather between 1965 and 1977 with a high density for the Hautes-Côtes of 10,000 vines per hectare. “He wanted to have exactly the same trellising as his Vosne-Romanée, to make high-quality wine. Aux Défois or Au Défoi is an official lieu-dit, which we started to use in 2021, but all vintages come from the same place.”
He describes the soil as “limestone and clay, very rich in iron, very red soils.” And of the harvest, he says, “The average picking date has come forward, from mid-October, to mid-September. Ripeness in the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s was right only six years out of ten. We get perfect ripeness now every year. Picking dates are now very similar to the Côte, while we used to have at least three weeks’ difference.”
Related
Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits Aux Défois
A lightly crunchy Hautes-Côtes, with a blueberry aroma and a zesty and herby attack. It is light-bodied, with a waft of leafy tannin and a red-currant crackle to the finish. 2025–27. 80
DOMAINE JACKY CONFURON-COTÉTIDOT
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Yves Confuron remarked, “There should be an elegance in 2023 because it is ripe. We had 100mm [4 inches] of rain then temperatures of 42ºC [108ºF] straight afterwards, and I think the vines went crazy. The skin was thinner on the Côte de Nuits than in Pommard, so there was a higher skin-to-juice ratio in Pommard.” There is no doubting that these are rich wines, with alcohol levels of 14.5% ABV, but Yves always picks later than most—the second half of September in 2023. The tannins are rich but super-ripe. “We didn’t have much acidity in 2023.” He uses 100% whole-bunch—and always has, like his father before him. He comments that there are insufficient studies to prove the effect of stems on increasing pH. The whole-bunch certainly brings a fresh sensation to his wines; the effect is not overpowering on the nose and the crunchiness on the finish gives the wines balance.
Yves’s wines are not currently the very height of fashion. But whether you like this style or not, there is no denying that they are well-made, structured wines for the long haul. Over the years, I have tasted many mature vintages and can vouch that they are worth waiting for, although he is now producing more accessible Bourgogne under a separate label, Domaine de Vénus (Yves Confuron), from a 2ha (5-acre) parcel of regional land he has purchased just south of Dijon.
He considers it a better vintage in Pommard than in the Côte de Nuits. “Pommard is more concentrated than the Côte de Nuits, which is more dilute. It is lighter in the Côte de Nuits this year.”
Pommard Premier Cru Arvelets
Black-cherry aroma and the palate is ripe and concentrated, with a rich depth of tannins and cool breeze of herbal freshness on the finish. 2028–35+. 93–94
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Derrière la Grange
Ripe raspberry fruit and white pepper on the nose. Rounded mid-palate, with sweet concentration of fruit. On the finish, there is appealing crunchiness and herbal freshness. Charming. A lovely expression of this terroir. 2028–40. 94–95
Nuits-St-Georges
Ripe red fruit with fresh herbal notes on the aroma. Smoothly textured and medium-bodied. A lighter style of Nuits, with peppercorn notes and herby freshness on the finish. 2027–35. 88
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Vignerondes
Forest fruit on both nose and palate. So juicy, dark, and spicy; a twang and bite to the tannins, with anise- and licorice-freshness to the finish. 2028–35. 93–94
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Suchots
Ripe, deep, red-cherry aroma, with spices. Firm tannins are layered with super-ripe summer fruit on the finish, which is spicy and aromatic. The full and rich feel is certainly lifted and given structure by the whole-bunch. 2030–40+. 94–95
Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Craipillot
Ripe, summer-fruit aroma. Supple, smooth texture. You certainly taste the sweetness of the vintage here. After this, a fresh and bright sweep to the finish. Really quite a charming Gevrey. 2028–38. 93
Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
This is from Charmes (rather than Mazoyères). Quite extravagant aromas, then super-floral and fruity on the palate. Very juicy, with a rich depth of fruit mid-palate. Ripe, soft, and succulent tannins. This is a very inviting Charmes and, on the finish, very floral. “Juice, sugar, and sweetness. We have it all in 2023,” remarks Yves. 2030–40. 97
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
“We are in the Haut section, but the vineyard is very consistent.” This is wilder than Charmes, with more forest fruit and a touch of sweet leather. Rich and succulent on the attack, undercut with a cold and lightly austere note. It is powerful and yet very contained. Some Mazis are exuberant in this vintage, but this is more in its primary stage and is hunkered down. It has a persistent finish, with spice and fruit and freshness. 2030–40. 97
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Super-rich and opulent aroma to a full and broad palate. Classic style. There is volume here. There is muscle and concentration, but it is not heavy. It has energy and finishes on a lifted floral note. 2030–35. 95–96
DOMAINE GROS FRÈRE & SOEUR
Vincent Gros says the biggest challenge in 2023 was to have both quantity and maturity. “We did a slow green-harvest, as we didn’t know the direction of the year, so we preferred to wait until the end of July.” The harvest here was September 14–27, during which there was strict sorting. “In a year like this, it isn’t a problem to throw bunches away. Given the ripeness of the grapes, all the bunches were destemmed, and we had longer vatting at a cooler temperature than usual.” Both remontage and pigeage were used, but because it was “very easy to extract, just one operation a day.”
Alcohol levels ranged from 12.5% to 14% ABV, while pHs levels were 3.8–3.9. Given those figures, it’s not surprising that there was a quick MLF just after the alcoholic fermentation in tank. Vincent likes a good period of decanting, between two and three weeks. “We prefer to allow a long time for the sedimentation.” After barrel-aging they have six months in tank before bottling.
Cavin is the only cooper used. The grands crus see 50% new oak; the premiers crus, village and regional wines, 30%. In 2021, Vincent used only one-year-old oak. So, oak is managed logistically, depending on the volume of the vintage, but overall there is less new oak than previously.
Vincent finds the 2023 vintage closest to 2017 or 2014. We tried a 2014 Echézeaux, which was still showing a lot of smoky oak, but this was a hallmark of the old style of Gros Frère et Soeur wines. “The volume was high in 2014, as in 2023. When you have high volume, the tannins are more supple. But we have changed many small things since then, including the oak. We had to wait to rediscover the purity of fruit in 2014, because of the barrels. In 2015, we changed the oak barrels.” I can’t see much similarity between 2014 and 2023, except the light density on the palate. The 2023 has better freshness, despite the high pHs.
I really enjoyed the whites here.
White
Chardonnay Vin de France
From 1.5ha (3.7 acres) in Concoeur, planted in 2016. Destemmed and kept in tank for a day or two and then pressed—a practical way of processing the large quantity of Chardonnay, though the pH is higher with this skin contact. “You must be very careful with selection when you so this. Finally, we use a similar technique for the whites as for the reds.” He presses up to 2 bar for the whites—harder because the fruit is destemmed. This has ripe apricot fruit and is juicy and flowery, with an appetizing, bitter bite, pithiness, and sapidity to finish. 2025–30. 83
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Fermented in oak, of which 20% is new. From a continuation of the parcel for the Vin de France, but this was planted in 1990. A ripe citrus aroma. Punchy and rich. Stony, savory, and smooth. It also has really good sapidity and a rich almond note with a saline finish. 2025–30. 85
Red
Chemin des Moines de Vergy Vin de France
From young vines planted in 2014 and 2015 across 3.8ha (9.4 acres) on the plateau 390–400m (1,280–1,310ft) above Vosne-Romanée on very poor and rocky soil. Strawberry-jam aroma. Soft and gentle onto the palate. Sweet and succulent and spicy, with exotic notes, but under this, a cooler, savory note. I like the puff of chalkiness on the finish. 2025–28. 85
Vosne-Romanée Clos de la Fontaine
Only the second vintage of this wine under the Gros Frère et Soeur label—seven barrels from 0.35ha (0.85 acre), planted by Michel Gros in 1991, then owned by Anne-Françoise Gros and now by Gros Frère et Soeur. Expressive red rose-petal aromas. A soft and easy slide into the palate. Plump and juicy. Livelier than the blended Vosne cuvée here, with more push through on the finish. Inviting. 2026–32. 87–88
Echézeaux Grand Cru
Vincent lost his holding in Grands Echézeaux to Anne Gros. This is from Loächausses, and while it may not be the best site in Echézeaux, this has charm. A ripe and spicy aroma to this light-bodied Echézeaux, with a waft of crisp tannin, delicate and fresh, with a herbal note to the finish. Light minty notes. 2027–35+. 93
Richebourg Grand Cru
The first parcel to be picked at this domaine, which keeps it in the red-fruit spectrum. Rich, rose-petal aroma and ripe summer fruits on the palate. This glides on a glossy, satin-rich texture. A big level up in intensity and focus on the other grands crus here. So much rich fruit channeled into the rich and persistent finish. 2028–35. 96–97
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
From the Garenne and En Musigni lieux-dits, “above the château near the wall, so the maturity is always very high.” Picked along with the Richebourg on the first day of the harvest. A supple and ripe Vougeot; really quite exotic, with purple aromas draped over the palate and a scented finish. 2028–35. 93
DOMAINE ANNE GROS
“You are lucky if you have a vintage like this once in your life. It is difficult to do better for quality and quantity. And you can do anything you want with it—it will be so accessible immediately and yet it has the potential to go further.” Anne does not think there is a vintage with which this compares: “2023 is more energetic than 2017.”
Harvest started here on September 7. “I aways need three weeks for my 8ha [20 acres],” says Anne. Alcohol levels are 13–14% ABV, with pH levels around 3.5 for whites and 3.6 for reds. “It’s not exceptionally high, and 2023 had low malic acidity.” Everything had just been moved from barrel, as has so often been the case when I’ve tasted here. Nevertheless, the wines were showing really rather well.
Anne comments, “The wines are silky and have lovely ripeness. No dilution. The alcohol level may be higher and the acidity lower, but there is still ideal balance.”
Anne has three children, and I often taste with Julie.
White
Coteaux-Bourguignons
Anne will create a name for this new cuvée—maybe it will be Julie. This is from younger vines of Chardonnay planted seven years ago as well as from some from the 26-year-old plantation. Citrusy and juicy, with attractive freshness. 2025–28. 82
Bourgogne Blanc Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Cuvée Marine
From 1ha (2.47 acres) planted 26 years ago on a light, east-facing slope on the limestone plateau above Vosne in Concoeur. Anne likes to wait for full phenolic ripeness for whites, so this is picked last, after all the reds, which can be complicated in the cellar as everything is warm. “I pick when the Chardonnay looks and smells good—the color of the berry and the seed, and the perfume.” It starts in stainless steel and is moved at a specific gravity of 1.030 to barrel, where it stays for a year. Six weeks decanting and a light filtration. No fining: “I hate it. I prefer to let the wine take its time. It is not necessary for me.” Stony strike. Ripe, but the flavor is apricot skin with almond kernel notes. Not fruity. Savory and sapid. I like it. 2025–30. 86
Red
Bourgogne
From three parcels around Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-St-Georges. This has vibrant, morello-cherry fruit, crunchy tannin, and is zesty. Light, with a hint of bitterness at the end, which I like, but it may just be from the lees, as it had recently been pumped into tank. 2025–29. 85
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
From vines 20 years younger than for the white, across 0.73ha (1.8 acres) and at an altitude of 450–460m (1,475–1,510ft). Ripe cherry fruits. Smooth, easy, and inviting, with just a light crunch on the finish. “The pH here is always the worst for the reds—maybe because of the clonal selection—but I don’t care, and I just tell my customers to drink it for pleasure.” 2025–28. 84
Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau
I do like this ripe, red-fruit (morello-cherry) Chambolle, with its smooth mid-palate and silken finish. Very nicely balanced and pure, and it floats on the finish. 2026–32. 89
Vosne-Romanée Barreaux
This is spot-on. Neat and compact. Crunchy and bright and snappy to finish. Anne always finds more forest fruit in it: “a little wild.” I like the tension and brightness here, and find more ripe, red fruit. Good concentration from this parcel higher up on the slope. 2026–32. 89
Echézeaux Grand Cru
From the lieu-dit Loächausses, where all the Gros family have their parcels. Very spicy, with gingerbread notes. A direct palate, with quite nice tension and zesty brightness to the finish. Silky and smooth, this has an easy fluidity. 2027–35. 94
Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru
Well, this is richer and more seductive. An alluring, glossy, smooth palate. A swaggering, full-bodied Echézeaux, with a creamy, milk-chocolate richness on the finish. A notch up in density and intensity. Here I prefer the Grands Echézeaux, whereas at many other domaines with both wines, I have preferred the Echézeaux in 2023. 2027–35. 96
Richebourg Grand Cru
Super-intense. Channeled and focused on the finish, which is very fine and persistent, with plenty of energy and a salty touch. Anne always has a bright and light effect in her Richebourg. It has vibration at the end. 2028–40. 98
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
From old vines planted in 1904 in Petit Maupertui, just over the wall from the Grands Echézeaux parcel: “Very close, but nothing to compare!” says Anne. I think there is a comparison, however, in that this is not a burly Vougeot. It is an energized Vougeot and it has so much intensity. Compact and tight and it jumps into the really vigorous finish. Punchy but well-contained. Not a big, broad palate, but there is muscle nonetheless. Among the best I tasted. 2028–40. 97
DOMAINE MICHEL GROS
Pierre Gros finds the 2023, “not very far from the 2022—maybe between 2022 and 2017—as the 2017 was also very approachable and fruity from the start.” A strong suit here this year was the Vosne wines—the Nuits less so—but my favorite village wine was actually the Morey. A very good flight of Hautes-Côtes wines, and I particularly liked the white.The village wines have 25–30% new oak, while it is 50% for the premiers crus and 100% for the grands crus. This is the second vintage of Echézeaux and Richebourg, which came through the redistribution of the Gros family vineyards.
White
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Fontaine Saint Martin Blanc
A blend of fruit from the shallow soil at the top of the slope and the deep soil at the bottom. Savory, ripe aroma; although there is no new oak, this has a glossy ripeness and smooth-stone allure, which carries to a fresh, sappy, savory finish that I like very much. Excellent Hautes-Côtes. 2025–30. 86
Red
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
Fresh red-berry fruit and a juicy splash on the palate. Exuberant Bourgogne. Soft tannins and so much ripe fruit. Simple and fruity. 2025–28. 82
Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Au Vallon
From two parcels, one planted up and down the hill from the 1970, the other across the slope on terraces planted in the 1990s and 2000s, with new and finer clones (Sélection ATVB Pinot Fin, which ripens faster). Strawberry-ripe fruit on both nose and palate. A slightly exotic fragrance. Finer tannins than the main cuvée, and a touch of salt and herbal notes to finish. Very inviting. 2026–30. 83
Bourgogne
Pretty red fruits with a hint of violets, then light, crunchy tannin and a touch piquant to finish. Charming. 2026–28. 84
Morey-St-Denis En La Rue de Vergy
Slides into the palate. This is a delight: super-smooth. Ripe forest fruits and a lick of gloss to the finish. Unusually ripe for this parcel. An alluring En La Rue de Vergy. Thin soil up on the slope and it ripens well, although it can stress in dry summers. 2027–33. 89–90
Nuits-St-Georges
This cuvée, from several parcels on the Vosne side of Nuits, is soft and juicy, with a light twang of tannins. I prefer it to the Nuits-St-Georges Les Chaliots this year, which is a bit more herbal. This has easy charm. 2026–30. 87
Vosne-Romanée
From three parcels, including Aux Réas. A rich and sumptuous palate. Full-bodied and generous, with thick richness of tannin and some new oak showing, which does give freshness to the finish. Very Vosne, and I prefer it this year to the leaner Chambolle. 2026–32. 88
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Aux Brulées
A lot of oak on the nose, but good tension and intensity on the palate. The ripeness is complemented by a colder tannic grip, and the finish is well-sustained. I prefer this to the Clos des Réas this year. 2027–35. 94
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Clos des Réas
Satin-ripe tannins, with quite a lot of oak; juicy richness of red fruit and succulence to finish. 2027–34. 93
Echézeaux Grand Cru
From the Loächausses lieu-dit, this is aged in 100% new oak. Dark fruited, glossy, and sumptuous on the palate. It’s ripe, soft, and supple, quite persistent and very inviting. 2027–35. 93
Richebourg Grand Cru
From a small holding of 0.41ha (1 acre) in lieu-dit Les Verroilles ou Richebourgs, this is quiet a step up in intensity and vigor. It has the typical Gros, richer, punchier style, with a powerful and very persistent finish. 2028–38. 96–97
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
A ripe and sumptuous aroma and a full-bodied, luscious palate. An expansive wine, with plenty of presence. Yes, it’s showy but it’s certainly long on the finish, too. Classic Clos de Vougeot. 2028–35. 95
MAXIME CHEURLIN NOËLLAT
Maxime Cheurlin’s négociant side produces some 15 wines, including a good volume of Hautes-Côtes from a 15ha (37-acre) parcel, which I didn’t taste as it’s not aged in the cellar in Vosne but in Nuits. This includes 2ha (5 acres) of Chardonnay. I arrived while he was pressing off the Hautes-Cotes red 2024. I thought the white was more promising, but it was still fermenting. For both négoce and domaine wines, Cheurlin uses largely Cavin barrels, and 50% new oak for the premiers crus. He washes some of the oak—for Cras, for example—by using it for the Hautes-Côtes first.
“I have lots of energy in 2023, with concentration but also a nice freshness—and no acidification! I hate that. I am very sensitive to it and it tastes metallic to me. So, I never use it.” There was certainly plenty of freshness on all the wine I tasted.
It seems you’re unlikely to see Maxime outside Burgundy any time soon: “I like being in Vosne and I don’t want to travel. I’m now the older generation, and I like it here.” He is 33.
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les St-Georges
The first vintage of this cuvée was 2021. Three or four barrels. An elegant aroma, with dark, spicy fruit, and on the palate, that dark fruit is woven with a smooth stream of supple and delicate tannin. Suave. The finish stretches out with lively freshness. 2027–35. 94–95
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
From Petit Maupertui, where Maxime comments on the microclimate created by the wall. A rather sweet and elegant expression of Vougeot, which is silky and fruity up-front, before catching a cool cut and freshness. A fine and elegant expression, which quivers on the finish. 2027–36. 95–96
DOMAINE GEORGES NOËLLAT
Maxime Cheurlin did a serious green-harvest in 2023 and comments, “It’s important to do this in just three weeks, as you can see the development. I debudded, too, but the green-harvest at the end of August was so important.”
He started harvesting on September 11 in Beaune and September 13 in Vosne. “On the September 10, the ripening was blocked. The rain helped to vines to restart. So, I restarted harvesting after the rain, on the 12th. The 15th to the 17th was the best time for proper phenolic maturity. No whole-bunch this year, as I had some oidium and I hate those aromatics.”
A cold-maceration to start with, for one or even two weeks. He uses two air-conditioned shipping containers to chill the fruit down to 8ºC (46ºF). He likes whole berries and says that when the grapes are cold it’s easier to do a good job with the destemmer. Three or four remontages, for a “slow and soft extraction.” At a specific gravity of 1.030, he starts pigeage and then likes it warm, going in hard for the punch-down when the alcohol is high. The result? Maxime’s wines have smoothly textured tannin.
He finds 2023 most like 2017, “but with more concentration and better ripeness.” And he agrees with me: “Yes, it’s a forward vintage… easy… So, why do you spit?!”
White
Meursault Premier Cru Les Cras
Maxime bought this small parcel in 2016 but has recently sold it, as he has purchased new vines in Chambolle Les Sentiers and some Mazoyères-Chambertin. A shame, as there are not many Meursault Cras, and this rendition, with no new oak, is really rather good. A rich, marzipan aroma, then delicious apricot fruit on the smoothly rounded and slightly sumptuous palate. 2026–35. 93–94
Red
Beaune Premier Cru Tuvilains
Ripe red-fruit aroma, with an easy, soft, and juicy palate. Light, smooth tannins. Picked on September 11, just before the rain. It’s fresh and bright at the end. Nicely balanced Beaune. 2026–30. 90
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Boudots
Super-fruity splash into a dark, spicy, and succulent palate, with supple tannins and ground coriander on the finish. 2027–33. 93
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Beaumonts
From the Bas section, just above his Echézeaux. Deep aroma. Rich and succulent. This is a full, luscious style of Beaumont, with good mid-palate density, and of all the wines I tried here, only this one had a light grip to the tannins. 94–95. 2028–34
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Chaumes
A sweet and succulent palate, with soft tannins and a gentle profile: “The easiest of my premiers crus. I love the texture,” says Maxime. 2026–32. 92
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Petits Monts
Intense, red-currant and black-currant fruit on the aroma—zesty and energetic. I like this light and lively Vosne, with its vibrant fruit on the finish. Silky tannins, too. 2027–33. 94
Echézeaux Grand Cru
From lieu-dit Vignes Blanches and vines planted in 1925. Pure and lively, silky and direct. A streamlined Echézeaux, which is aromatic on the finish and has a light sapid note. 2027–35. 95
Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru
Richer and darker than the Echézeaux, battened-down for now. Dense and punchy. Interesting, as it is even richer and more structured than the Clos de Vougeot, though the parcels are very close. 2028–35. 95
DOMAINE DU COMTE LIGER-BELAIR
White
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos les Grandes Vignes
Although this lies below the Route 74, Louis-Michel likes to point out that the road is not on the flat here, but slightly higher, so the vineyard is on a light slope. The lower part of the vineyard is classified as village. Foulage before pressing, a long settling, and a “super-long fermentation.” Made in 350-liter and 228-liter barrels. He prefers an earlier bottling for this, before the end of the year. The aroma is ripely citrus, with notes of marzipan. The palate is both creamy and cloaking and yet also softy mineral. Richly textured, with a fresh and vibrant tannic note to finish. A concentrated and quite full-bodied wine, but it has a surprising pounce to attack the finish. 2026–35. 92–93
Red
Nuits-St-Georges Aux Lavières
A small cuvée of just two barrels. Silky tannins, supple and fluid. Light, in a good way. Aromatic finish. A typical terroir expression from this vineyard, which has a light-textured soil. Subtle Nuits-St-Georges. 2026–30. 88–89
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Clos des Grandes Vignes
Ripe, deep, cherry-sweet aroma, which carries through to a rich, very ripe palate. Intensely sweet and juicy, with lowish acidity. A more fruit-driven, luscious style in which you feel the warmth of the vintage. “I have to play a bit, as I don’t want the rusticity of Nuits-St-Georges,” says Louis-Michel. 2027–34. 92
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Cras
From a climat situated between Aux Boudots and La Richemone, near the border with Vosne. Upright on the nose. Haughty. Snappy palate. Crunches. Energetic. Sappy and bright. I like the fine-chalk, talcy tannins. There’s a real crackle to the finish, too. So fresh. I love this. It’s all there. Among my favorite wines from Nuits this vintage. Top-notch. 2028–38. 95
Vosne-Romanée
A blend of 11 parcels, 20% toward top of the slope, the rest from the north and south of the village. Red-cherry aroma. Ripe-fruit attack, zesty and energetic. Quite snappy tannins. I like the piquant, fresh finish. A lively and lighter style of Vosne within Louis-Michel’s flight of four village wines. 2026–30. 87–88
Vosne-Romanée La Colombière
From clay soil below the château, planted in the 1920s and ’30s. Richly floral aroma. Silky and generous, with a gorgeous texture, sumptuous and yet fresh. So very Vosne. A delightful, rich ribbon of fruit to finish. 2026–35. 90
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Brûlées
There is just one 300-liter barrel of this cuvée, from the Richebourg side, which is sold for charity. Small berries and some whole-bunch: “I was looking for more strictness.” A warm and rich aroma. But compact and dense on the palate, even somewhat austere. Punchy. Quite some tannic matter here. 2028–40. 94–95
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru La Croix Rameau
Louis-Michel has 0.2ha (0.5 acre) of this 0.6ha (1.5-acre) vineyard en fermage from Lamarche. “I am still discovering this parcel,” he says. “The subsoil looks like Clos du Château—a big block of rose marble. Why is this part separate from Romanée-St-Vivant? Was it an orchard for the monks? There is not much record of this vineyard.” A very seductive floral aroma. Ripples on a rich river of fruit to an aromatic, lingering finish. 2028–40. 96
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Malconsorts
This also comes via Lamarche, and from old vines, since these were not replaced in the 1980s when Lamarche replanted. A seven-barrel cuvée in 2023, for it’s from a sizeable parcel of 0.5ha (1.2 acres). This is compact and dense yet opulent. Plentiful, velvety tannins. Great volume and so sumptuous. A powerful finish, with sapid freshness. Good stuff. “I destemmed it all, as I could see Malconsorts and it didn’t need anything more.” 2029–40. 97
Echézeaux Grand Cru
Lithe, silky, and pure. Intense and finely grained. It skates elegantly on the palate, and I prefer it to the bigger, richer Grands Echézeaux. Slim-textured and neatly edged, this focuses on the finish. It is discreet. 2027–38. 96–97
La Romanée Grand Cru
Extraordinary intensity of aroma. Distilled essence of rose petal… even if I’m slightly afraid I may say that every year. (I don’t look at my previous notes.) What a depth to the silk on the palate. Enveloping. It is utterly indulgent and yet so refined. All about the aromatics and the texture. An incredible finish. Wonderfully persistent and hauntingly perfumed. Entrancing. It may well deserve a perfect score once it’s in bottle. 2028–40+. 99
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Rich and full aroma. Burly attack. No lack of volume here. Showy but not heavy. Vigorous. Powerful finish. Classic, big, bold Clos de Vougeot. 2029–40. 95–96
DOMAINE MÉO-CAMUZET
I tasted with Chilean winemaker Nacha Navarro, who has been assisting Jean-Nicolas Méo for the past couple of vintages.
They started harvesting on September 5, with the Corton Rognet and Clos de Vougeot. Cros Parantoux was picked on the 9th, as was the Richebourg, and they finished harvest on the 15th. “The grapes were shriveling, and we were afraid of rot, so we started picking at 7am and finished at 4pm. Jean-Nicolas was at the head of the sorting table.” There is a cool room for the fruit picked later in the day and they made good use of a heat exchanger. 100% destemmed fruit, except for the Corton Perrières, which has 9% whole-bunch.
“Most important, though, was the green-harvest—over three weeks in July.” Yields were generally 35–40hl/ha—Les Chaumes was highest, at 45hl/ha. “We adapted a lot of the work in the cellar.” Cooler fermentation and shorter vatting. “Shorter pump-overs and fewer punch-downs—just three or four—and at a cooler temperature. From a specific gravity of 1.060–1.030, the temperature was kept to a maximum of 24–26ºC [75–79ºF]. Even if we sorted, we didn’t want any risk of VA because of the acetic rot. For the post-fermentation maceration, we had a high temperature of 32ºC [90ºF] for five days. The vatting was generally 15 to 18 days, while the 2024 had 21 days.”
The grapes were thin-skinned, yet “there is a lot of matter in these wines.” Nacha discovered that the barrels, which were racked in the summer, had a lot of lees, although the wines were not reductive. They started bottling in December 2024, with the Fixin. Since 2021, they have been using only oak that has been seasoned for three years, and it is mostly light toast. Previously, it was medium toast. “We feel this has helped the fruit and the freshness in richer years.” Some 80% of the barrels are from François Frères, and Nacha describes the effect as “long and fresh and it stretches the palate.” Some 15% of the barrels come from Cavin, and the rest from a mix of smaller coopers. The grands crus see 80% new oak.
Bourgogne Côte d’Or Etienne Camuzet
From vineyards around Vosne and Chambolle. Juicy, ripe, dark fruit. A light snap of tannin. Pleasant. No new oak. 2025–28. 84
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Boudots
Dark forest fruit, quite opulent and rounded, rich and spicy. Ripe, soft tannins. 2027–33. 92
Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Aux Murgers
Ripe cherry fruit, but this is a bright and zesty Nuits with a spring in its step. A fresh cut of stone. Prances into a long finish. 2027–33. 93–94
Vosne-Romanée
Some 80% of this comes from lieu-dit Les Barreaux and 20% from Aux Communes. Around 50% new oak. A silky ribbon of ripe fruit. Slides into the palate. The mid-palate is rather spicy and juicy, with black-cherry fruit. The new oak helps with the freshness, as the wine is softer than usual. Good intensity of fruit to finish. 2027–31. 89
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Chaumes
60% new oak. Spicy, forest fruit and red peppercorn notes on the nose. Ripe fruit and a silky texture. This is a rather more energetic Chaumes than I expected. I like the oak-tannin bite to the end of the palate, which is really helping to make it feel quite lively and fresh. 2027–33. 91–92
Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Cros Parantoux
100% new oak, and it has the intensity to absorb it. Smooth and generous, yet fresh enough. A lovely balance of sumptuous fruit and freshness, with the new oak just boosting this. A gloss to the texture. The finish is velvety and very well-sustained. 2027–38. 96
Echézeaux Grand Cru
From 0.4ha (1 acre) of lieu-dit Les Rouges du Bas. Earlier picking here—on September 8—for 13.87% ABV and a pH of 3.44. (It usually has a very low pH, and 3.44 isn’t so high.) 80% new oak. An elegant, pure, and neatly edged, fresh Echézeaux. Streamlined. Good tension and vibrancy on the finish, which is persistent and has a firm and mineral note. Salty at the end. Spot-on. 2027–36. 96–97
Richebourg Grand Cru
Here there is 13.64% ABV and a pH of 3.65, but it is always higher here than in the Echézeaux. A concentrated palate, with a depth of rich, red fruit. Spicy, with notes of star anise; a combination of the new oak and the ripeness. Channeled and quite discreet. There is piquancy and energy on the straight and persistent finish. The texture is fine. Just at the end, there is more of the spice, and a perfumed finish. 2028–40+. 97–98
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Full, ripe, expressive aroma, then on the palate, it has power and toned muscularity. Volume and richness. Punches into a long and strong finish. 2028–40. 96–97
Corton Grand Cru Clos Rognet
This is always the first parcel to be picked—on September 5 in 2023. The new oak has been reduced to 60%, because in previous vintages it was taking too long to integrate. An expressive, spicy aroma. Super-rich on the strike. On the rich, jammy side. A broad and looser-grained palate. Easy swoop into the finish. Plenty of impact, but somewhat rustic in this exalted grand cru company. 2028–37. 93–94
MÉO-CAMUZET FRÈRE ET SOEUR
Nacha remarks that it can sometimes be helpful for the balance to blend fruit from several parcels and different growers. The Chambolle village wine is an assemblage of five parcels from two different growers. The alcohol levels ranged from 12.93% to 14.10% and the pH from 3.35 to 3.6.
While the 2022s went through their MLF very quickly, the 2023s were later, from January to March. “We were happy with the late MLF, because I feel we get more complexity with a later malo.”
As for vintage comparisons: “2017 for its approachability. But analytically it is more like 2018, because of the higher alcohol and pH levels.”
Fixin
Black-cherry aroma. Since 2020, there has been no new oak for the Fixin—a good thing, as there is already quite enough tannin in Fixin. This 2023 has plentiful, thick tannins but they are soft, and there is succulent, rich, black fruit on the palate. An appealing, fruity Fixin. 2026–30. 86
Chambolle-Musigny
A round-the-village blend. A ripe, red-cherry aroma. Rich into the palate, too. Quite luscious, with a light grip of tannin at the end, which brings freshness. 30% new oak and the light oakiness works well. 2026–20. 88
Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Les Charmes
Black-cherry fruit, rounded and soft and quite oaky. A classic, full, rich style of Charmes, with 13.5% ABV and a pH of 3.58. 2027–31. 90
DOMAINE JEAN TARDY & FILS
There has been an evolution in the texture of the wines at this domaine, which Guillaume Tardy says is a result of a new destemmer—all his fruit is 100% destemmed—as well as a gentler approach in the reception of the grapes—a ten-day cold-soak, which he feels adds to the glycerol—and a longer post-fermentation maceration at 32ºC [90ºF] for between three and five days, which he feels has added to the richness of texture. Guillaume harvested September 11–18. He worked organically for three years but fell foul of the difficult ’24 vintage. In 2023 he did not do a green-harvest, but there was vry strict sorting on the table and he chaptalized a little to reach 13% ABV. After fermentation, he waits ten days for the heavy lees. Finally, he retains 1–2 liters of lees per barrel. This way, he doesn’t need to rack, and he’s been doing this since 2002.
“2023 is fresh and bright, round and not overconcentrated,” says Guillaume.
Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Cuvee Maelié
A cuvée named after Guillaume’s daughter, the grapes coming from a 1ha (2.47-acre) parcel in Concoeur. Super-juicy, with ripe, strawberry fruit and smooth tannins. Fresh and salty. Spot-on. 2025–30. 85
Côtes de Nuits-Villages
From two parcels, one shallow, the other deeper, totaling 1.4ha (3.5 acres) in Comblanchien, below the church, and 65- to 85-year-old vines. The first vintage was 2021. Blueberry-fruit aroma, silky and approachable. Super-smooth. Yummy. Accessible and well-balanced. 2025–30. 84
Fixin La Place
This lieu-dit is 0.8ha (2 acres), with clay soil, and is divided between two owners. Plentiful fruit—a touch rustic but in a good way. Plenty of personality, and I like the lightly robust note, which is appealing rather than assertive. “Most of the time, my Fixin is gentle.” 2026–30. 84–85
Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier
This is sprightly and vivacious. It comes from shallow soil without much clay, and there is a sense of minerality. Elegant, for sure. Light, liquid chocolate finish. 2026–35. 87–88
Chambolle-Musigny Les Athets
Ripe raspberry fruit to a juicy, soft, and cosseting palate. Enveloped in red fruit. Very Chambolle. Very soft, rounded, smooth, and generous. 2026–33. 86–87
Vosne-Romanée Vigneux
Wild strawberries and a touch of white pepper on the nose. Glides easy-peasy onto the palate. Super-supple and sweet. This is very pretty, rounded, and sleek. 2026–35. 86–87
Nuits-St-Georges Bas de Combe
From 85-year-old vines. Very succulent, juicy, and rich. Pushes onto the finish, rich and generous. Yes, some muscle and depth, but it is super-smooth and I like the light tannic freshness to the finish. 2026–36. 87
2023 Burgundy: Abundant variability
2023 Burgundy: A guide to the villages and vineyards
2023 Burgundy: Chablis with a sunny disposition
2023 Burgundy: Chablis tasting notes
2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Nuits—Marsannay and Fixin
2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Nuits—Gevrey-Chambertin
2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Nuits—Morey-St-Denis
2023 Burgundy tasting notes: Côte de Nuits—Chambolle-Musigny
