Neil Beckett | An assemblage reflecting what should be the final blend, sampled at the domaine in November 2018, suggests that this will be a brilliant sequel to the outstanding 2016, and worthy early swansong from talented régisseur and winemaker Jacques Devauges, who moved to neighboring Clos des Lambrays in early 2019. As he explained, Clos de Tart is one of the very few domaines that had slightly higher yields in 2016 (35hl/ha) than in 2017 (32hl/ha). An early harvest (September 6–10). Different but equally good as soloists, the eight cuves that are fermented and raised separately perform even more persuasively as an octet. Medium-deep, luminous ruby. Expressive, effortless, perfectly formed on the nose, brilliant, croquant, finely focused but multifaceted, too, a summer pudding with all ripe red, but no black, fruit. Elegant and fine on entry, agile, even mercurial, fresh, sleek, and silky thanks to the superfine tannins. Early-harvest exuberance and joie de vivre. And doubtless joie de boire, too. | 95