Neil Beckett | The intelligent and sensitive new régisseur (since March 2019), Alessandro Noli, formerly at François Pinault's sister property Château Grillet, clearly has his own ideas, but will be continuing the more elegant interpretation introduced by his predecessor Jacques Devauges (now at Clos des Lambrays). Medium-deep ruby, a natural luster. Beautifully integrated soft spice from the whole-bunch fermentation (an average of 65% across the different parcels) and the oak (80% new but the proportion will be reduced still further from 2019). At once aérien and mouthfilling, floating and gliding on its seductively silky tannins, which leave only the gentlest valedictory squeeze. Hugely promising, another wonderful wine from this special site.| 94–95