Neil Beckett | A fascinating and illuminating tasting at the domaine with the brilliant young technical director Jacques Devauges, who drew barrel samples from the eight different cuves (containing 27 different parcels). Average yields were very low due to coulure and heat stress—22hl/ha—so the grapes had very thick skins, which Devauges was very careful not to overextract (only three pigeages in total). The careful approach appears to have paid off handsomely, on the basis of the blend he made reflecting the probable proportions of the final wine. A brilliant mid-ruby. Brilliant balance and harmony of ripe red and black fruit, fine, floral (roseate), and subtle. Beautifully melded, layered, round, and supple, still with great freshness on the finish. The lighter winemaking hand will not make a light wine, but a more naturally expressive, more elegant, more finely nuanced one. | 94