Andrew Jefford | Full yellow-gold. A lovely scent: walnuts and white mushrooms, with a bacon hock in the background somewhere. Mature but enticing. Luscious, full, gratifying, and intense on the palate: rounded, vivid, vigorous, with ample acid balance but ample Gewurz style, too. A first-rate effort here. Absolutely ready now. | 91

Charles Metcalfe | Mid-gold color. Dark, honeyed, toasty, and maturing beautifully. The aromas add litchi and lemon zest to the toast. The palate is almost painfully intense, with high acidity, a lean, lemony-toasty side, and great richness and weight as well. It’s all larger than life and may just need more time to settle down. But the length is fabulous, the intensity superb, and the potential longevity amazing. | 97

Jancis Robinson | Dark apricot color. Rich and vibrant and with sweet apricot fruit. Good sturdy freshness. Still admirably youthful. A bit bitter. Drink 2016–20. | 92