Jamie Goode | Very sweet fruit with a slightly baked character. Lots of vanilla oak here, alongside the sweet, dense, ripe blackcurrant and blackberry fruit. Very modern, polished and intense. Currently youthful and primary. It may soak up the oak and evolve well, but it’s very much in the international style. | 88

Peter Richards | Polished and exuberant initially. Creamy, high-toned, with plummy notes. Spicy, hot, with stewed fruit. The tannin is fine but it needs more freshness and precision. It’s a bit dead-eyed in its beauty-pageant ideal. Lacks soul. | 86

David Williams | Big-boned and lots of new wood: really massive concentration; immense, intense, and heady. Well-structured, with creamy fruit power, but there is freshness, too, underscoring the mass. A keeper. | 90