Tim Atkin: Mid-ruby/tawny. Some development at the rim. Complex, faintly feral nose. Minty, leafy palate. Dry finish. Lacks fruit. Fading already? 10

Alex Hunt: Aromas at the herbaceous end of the spectrum—fresh blackcurrant and tomato leaf: unusual in this context. The palate is a little thick-textured; the acidity is marked but fails to cut the richness. Not very harmonious. 13

Anthony Rose: Ruby evolving to garnet in color, this has smoky, spicy aromatic notes and is quite sweet and spicy on the palate, too. It lacks a bit of concentration on the mid-palate, the tannins hauling the wine up somewhat short and, given its age, suggesting that there may not be a lot further to go. 14