Andrew Jefford | Deep though clear red. A touch of gym shoe to the aroma of this wine; let’s see if it clears. Five minutes later, that slightly oppressive note has disappeared, and there’s a little fruit, but it doesn’t have a lot of shape or focus. Brightly acidic palate, but there’s not much primary fruit clinging to the acidity now. It seems to have lost the youthful charm, but to lack the resonance it would need to seduce as a mature wine. | 81

Anne Krebiechl | A lovely richness of fruit becomes apparent immediately; this has notes of summer pudding, of redcurrant and raspberry, enveloped in just a little woodsmoke. This is joyous, tartily fruity, totally balanced, and almost bouncy. Everything is illuminated by fresh acidity, but underneath there is a harmonious, unforced unity of elements that suggests ease and pleasure. So lovely, so joyful. Lip-smacking and moreish—with mileage. | 95

Jancis Robinson | Dark crimson. Light, slightly decayed nose. Then sweet and sour. Not sure there is quite enough in the middle to integrate these two elements. A bit of grating acidity on the end. 2018–23. | 87