Stephen Brook: Delicate nose, ripe lime, marzipan; quite floral. Fresh, delicate, but rather dominated by firm acidity. It's tangy, citric and zesty, but in a slightly raw style that may not please everyone. I find it graceful and appetising, but I suspect this is strictly for fans of dry German Riesling. lS

Jancis Robinson: Real lift and grace on the nose. Lovely, if tightly furled, potential and great texture. Lighter and tarter than many, though with no loss of character. Very marked acidity. 16

Alexander Scott: Warm; spice notes. Certainly not overripe, though. On the contrary, the palate is taut and incisive. This is Jan Garbarek's soprano saxophone sound: pellucid, austerely pure, cerebral. Understated, long; needs four years or more. Classic. 16.5