Stephen Brook: Rich nose, apricots and cream; has some power. Rich, full-bodied, fine texture and concentrated, with just a touch of sweetness to balance the acidity, which seems fully ripe but gives length and piquancy on the aftertaste. Elegant and harmonious, with good length. Very satisfying. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Light honey character on the nose. Zesty but without great depths. Competent rather than exciting. 14.S

Alexander Scott: A notch more warmth than the Dorsheimer Pittermannchen, with similar spicy tones. At first, softer and more open on the palate, but then comes some grip. Close thing, but I think I prefer the vim and purity of the Pittermannchen. 16