Stephen Brook: Distinctive nose of grapefruit and wet stones. Richer and softer than the nose led me to expect, withatouch of sweetness. Pronounced sherbetty tang, but the fruit lacks some presence and weight. Not quite concentrated enough, so the acidity dominates the finish. 14

Jancis Robinson: Quite deep gamboge ( yellow). Very ripe florally fruity aromas. No compromises - bone dry with masses of acidity. I'd wait a while for this, a wine that is not absolutely transparent. Still a lot of grip. 13

Alexander Scott: Remaining in the citrus family but this time maybe even a hint of Seville orange. Real personality here - a sense that the wine has come seeping up from the earth. Tremendous torque on the mid-palate; etches itself on to the membranes. A wine of stature and authority. 18