Stephen Brook: Muted stone-fruits nose. Very sweet, creamy, luxurious, concentrated, and then fine acidity kicks in, sustaining the fruit and giving the palate ample length. At first it seems a touch heavy, but that lift and persistence suggest a long future. 18

Margaret Rand: Rich, well muscled, sturdy. Smoky, minerally, big, and deep. Fairly sweet, with as much power as sweetness. Elegance, too, to lighten it all. 16.5

Jancis Robinson: A real spring in this wine’s step—or up my nose. Some strong mineral elements and an odd note of coconut on the nose. Very sprightly and delicate, with an extremely pungent nose. Real lift, and a wine that positively dances. Very clean finish with great balance, even if not one of the sweetest. Drink 2012–24. 18