Stephen Brook: Is there such a thing as marmalade made from lemons? If so, this is what it smells like. Intense, too. Delightful freshness on the attack, dainty rather than weighty, and perhaps too much so for TBA, but there’s a welcome lack of unctuosity and instead some intensity and purity and a very long citric finish. Playing its cards close to the chest, but there’s a winning flush to come. 18.5

Margaret Rand: Spicy and super-intense, coffee and cloves and even cumin. Very young and tight; really too intense yet—needs a long, long time. Superb balance, power, depth, and complexity. 19

Jancis Robinson: Hot, burned, simple aromas. Not long on finesse. Good acidity, but the sweetness is not exceptional and certainly not especially complex. This may come around, but compared with some other TBAs it looks a little formulaic. Apricot purée flavors—not even fresh apricots. Drink 2015–22. 17.5