Stephen Brook: Odd nose, like bitter lemon and gin; bruised apples. Broad, rather flat, lacks zest: a dull dog. 9

Jancis Robinson: Some su lphur evident on the nose. Far from a charmer. Solid fruit on the palate and admirably smooth texture. There is lots here, including a rather arresting lychee note. Giving it the benefit of the doubt, it has simply been built for a long life. 14.5

Alexander Scott: Decadent autumnal ripeness here. A more exotic touch, though curiously also a hint of the herbaceous (skin contact?). Still plenty of vigour, but maybe not quite as much as the Stielweg Alte Reben. 15