Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A great Pomerol. Unlike its neighbour, Vieux-Château-Certan (for which MB mistook it in the blind tasting), this wine opens immediately on classy aromas of cedar, violets and spice, with supremely thoroughbred (almost rigid) tannins. A stunner in the making! 16.5

Margaret Rand: A bit dry on the tannin front, but with good fruit; long and concentrated. Very grippy at the moment. 16.5

Michael Schuster: Deep purple. Dense, minerally, ripe-fruited nose. Elegantly balanced, rich, fresh, fleshy middleweight with a very fine tannin – a lovely balance of refined ripe fruit, subtle mineral background and beautifully mouth-coating scent. Long and graceful and complex, not particularly big, but suave, harmonious and very classy. 17+