Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A terrific success, thanks to far more meticulous crafting than in previous years. All the traditional spirit of this growth is expressed here, with a classy violet nose and ultra-refined tannins. Beyond question the most textbook Pomerol of all those sampled at the Union des Grands Crus tasting. Destined for greatness. 17.5

Margaret Rand: Rich and balanced, complex and serious. Bright, lively fruit, very refined and concentrated, really elegant and very fine. 19

Michael Schuster: Black red. Dense, fresh, ripe and minerally nose. Rich, ample and fleshy, with a fine, silky tannin and fresh acidity – a lovely, vital balance; deep, really velvety textured wine, full of fine ripe, creamy blackberry fruit and subtle mineral aromas. Long, generous, spicy, complex and envelopingly scented, but entirely without excess. The very image of really fine Pomerol. 18