Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A classical, lightly vanilla-tasting wine with superb roasted character and richness, but not quite the dazzle of the Coutet tasted just before it. 16

Margaret Rand: Rather light, with a long, roasted finish. It’s attractive, but far from sensational. 15.5

Michael Schuster: Dense, slightly woody, coconut oak nose over the ripe fruit. Rich, concentrated, vigorous, medium-weight. Very sweet and intense in flavour, but not a great deal of aroma or mid-palate ‘race’/complexity, and finishes a bit short for the level. A good, rather than a great, Guiraud. 16