Alison Buchanan: Black plum-cherry in colour to a tight firm rim, this reveals warm Bakewell tart on the nose. Earthy fruit; hot and spicy, with an attractive savoury layer and crushed stones. The palate is rich and sweet, richly textured with good grip – silky on the finish. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Purple. Soft, gentle fruit, subtle ‘balsamic’ hints. Very nice ‘soft’ fruit, with counterpointing tannins, nicely put together. The tannins are strong, but the fruit shows signs of winning through. Lovely, gentle finish, even though the wine needs more time. 18.5

Jeremy Watson: Similar comments to the 2001 Bodegas Riojanas Gran Albina Rioja, but with a bit more style. Good wine. 17