Jesús Barquín: Different color, deeper, Bordeaux-like. The nose is different, too: toasty, gamey notes and reduced stews—very smoky. Ditto for the palate, with perhaps slightly greater body and intensity than other wines in the same flight. Long and powerful finish. 17

Simon Field: Holding color well for a wine from 1978; vespertine hue, from the remains of a very warm day. Rich fruity nose, perfect balance between saddle leather, mocha, and hints of tar. Palate is elegant and complete, the oak finely integrated with a hint of Partagas no.4, a touch of licorice and fig to complete the picture. A Spanish grand master, to be sure. 18.5

Jancis Robinson: Very healthy ruby with strong brick rim. Notably complex, with some licorice and thoroughly melted tarriness. Medium-weight, dry finish after lovely fully ripe fruit that shows real balance and confidence. Hint of tobacco leaves. Lovely complete wine. Medium persistence. Richer than the Remelluri 1979. Drink 1995–2020. 18.5