Alison Buchanan: Very darkly coloured, this has a rather chemical, non-vinous nose. The palate offers a lot of grip initially: cocoa dry tannins vying for dominance. Fruit gradually begins to break through the tannic clutches on the mid-palate – enormous, powerful and currently charmless. 14.5

Jancis Robinson: Ruby/red. Clean, musky fruit, a bit closed. Nice, clean fruit, delicious, fresh; rather ‘woolly’ but very drinkable. 15

Jeremy Watson: Very similar in style and quality to the 2001 Bodegas Bilbaínas La Vicalanda Reserva, though this shall get half a point less. 17