Stephen Brook: Medium straw. Muted nose, peaches, marzipan, slight boiled-sweets character. Very rich, plump – there’s some flab here despite the sound acidity. Quite high alcohol, rather broad and frankly rather dull. Medium length. 14.5

Simon Field: Big colour. Ripe, slightly clumsy nose. On the palate, a weight of architecture that is structurally secure but far from classical in aspiration. Peaches and oranges. A perfectly approachable wine but one that falls away slightly. 14.5