Andrew Jefford: Pale steel-gold. Pretty sweet summer fruits with a rosebud sheen. Lots of charm. Almost creamy. Lovely elegance here. Structurally not a big-boned or weighty wine, but very pure, very carefully crafted, with consummate balance between its fruits, its minerals and a kind of floral sappiness, too. Indeed, that sappiness almost comes to dominate at the end, but finally the minerality asserts itself. 16.5

Simon Larkin : Deeper in appearance. This exudes remarkably tangy fruit on the nose, exotic almost. The palate shows a broad arc of flavour and good purity, too. Intense and in no way as exotic as the nose suggested. Unfortunately, this loses its way a little even though the fruit lingers well. Where is the overriding sense of harmony? A frequently asked question so far. 13.5

Alexander Scott: Quite powerfully aromatic, again in the spice register. But here we have something considerably riper and richer on the palate, possibly with some residual sugar. Softer textured and seems looser than the Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg’sches Wallhausen Johannisberg at first, but there is just enough mineral dry extract to carry through to a complex finish. Fine wine. 16