Andrew Jefford: Very full, almost luminous yellow. Fantastic depth of saturated fruit aroma here, combining the fresher fruit spectrum (apple, pear, lemon) as well as more exotic notes of pineapple and banana. A little later on you get a kind of fairground whiff of caramel and popcorn. Very complete. Astonishing, piercing depth and intensity here: a great thrusting spear of fruity acidity sent slithering across the tongue and down the throat. Fluge energy; so huge, indeed, that it would be difficult to drink this at this stage. And behind? This is the question. Grand wine, yet the finish for the time being is a bit savage and biting. 16.5

Simon Larkin : Mid-lemon in hue. Aromas quite restrained. Sense of pithy fruit to come. Lightness evident, quite vibrant, though modest intensity. Certainly limey, with unripe-grapefruit quality overriding. Modest persistence - this is sound but uninspiring. The shrill accent to the acid upsets the balance for me. 12

Alexander Scott: Green-gold. Punchy attack, not quite enough sustained interest thereafter, though plenty of power. Alcoholic, like nearly all of these wines, but in the end it leaves one unmoved. Good, but not great. 14.5