Andrew Jefford | Bright mid-gold. Quite aromatically discreet after a very articulate flight, but everything that is there is fine: deft, discreet, sweetly fruity, with fragrant eating apple and feathery citrus. This amplifies with time in the glass so that after five minutes, it has full-on articulacy. Juicy, lively, but quite citric in the mouth: I don’t quite see the subtlety here that the aromas suggested. It has terrific concentration, though, and powers on ripe, full-throttle acidity down the palate. Maybe this needs a year or two to calm down a little. Germany, I’d say, though there is vinosity, too, which would take us to Alsace; the dominant acidity suggest a cooler location, though. | 90

Stephan Reinhardt | This Riesling opens pure and stony on the deep nose, showing a ripe and elegant yet rather discreet fruit, with crunchy, stony notes. Tight and mineral on the palate, this is a dense and elegant, salty and structured, quite phenolic but also juicy and persistent dry Riesling, with a slightly drying grip on the still austere and drying finish at this early stage. Excellent, but this wine needs some years to develop more class, finesse, and charm. 2026–40. | 92+

Anthony Rose | Pale lemon in color, this combines floral and apricot-like notes in its perfume, while in the mouth the apricot-like flavors are underpinned by a salty dry streak that’s refreshingly juicy to the point of becoming, as it tapers toward its finish, mouthwateringly tangy and dry. | 91