Michel Bettane: Admirable partridge-eye tones; splendid acacia honey nose; Pinot Noir-dominated character. Ripe fruit on the palate, bags of flavour. 17

Simon Larkin : Mid-lemon appearance, with aromas of discreet fruit. The palate reveals a marginally aggressive mousse, and there is a very slight greenness here that is quite unappetising. Mouth-filling in terms of its breadth, with some yeasty qualities dictating the style. This loses its way for me, with an absence of true purity. 15

Anthony Rose: Pale gold, a hint of copper, persistent bead. Baked apple, oxidative character, possible touch of oak fermentation. Good classic, traditional flavours, quite worked style with leesy, biscuity fruit quality. 15.5