Michel Bettane: Almost partridge-eye colour with amber tones. Possibly barrel-aged. Pure and neat, but at this stage not complex; ambitious, but not perfectly controlled. Well bred, certainly. 14.5

Simon Larkin : Slightly golden aspect. Fine bead. Creamy, rich fruit aromas - well-expressed. The palate shows lovely fresh bread-like qualities, with ripe citrus beneath and a luxuriant mousse. Finely constructed, though it shows a softer acidity than anticipated. Lacking a dart of race, this is still a very good example, with a persistent finish. 14

Anthony Rose: Deepish yellow -gold, almost coppery in appearance; good persistent bead, tiny pinprick bubbles. Distinctly appley on the nose, with a baked apple-pie character suggesting a fair whack of reserve wine. Soft, honeyed mousse, with an aged character. Very individual. 14