Essi Avellan: Deep color with browning hues. Main character is regrettably oxidation, meaning that you cannot appreciate anything underneath. 10

Andrew Jefford: Very developed old gold. Rich and autumnal and avuncular to smell, with a breadiness behind. You’d expect this to be an older vintage rather than an NV, but perhaps it is solera work or a grower style. Either way, I like it a lot, and that oxygen/wine relationship draws me into the glass. On the palate, this is deep, pure, long, expressive, and subtle, despite—or thanks to—the oxidative style; the allusions are rewardingly autumnal (leaf mold, ripe apples with waxy skins, quince jelly). I don’t get a lot of stone from the palate, but the technically assured mousse and ripe acid structure carry the wine well. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Correct structure and long, lean, intense finish, but oaky-aldehydic. 15