Simon Field: Nose a little petulant. On the palate, faded grandeur; and quite a lot of spirit on the finish. Nonetheless, impressive persistence and an elegant texture. Mature now, slipping into dotage, albeit gracefully. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Clear, quite light, yet still a lot of red in the mix. Fragrant, warm and coffeeish. Not a thunderer but great enchantment. Tangy, light, with touches of aniseed and fennel in with the dry fruit notes. Lingering. Probably in its final decade of m aturity now. 15

Richard Mayson: Mid-brick-red centre, withatawny-pink rim. Not giving away a great deal on the nose, withatouch of spirit evident. Soft but rather hollow on the palate. Firm fruit and spicy tannins rising in the mouth, but a bit foursquare and lacking charm. 14.5