Stephen Brook: Rich but slightly earthy nose. Very sweet, lush but heavy; sappy appley fruitiness but lacks acidity and vigour. Medium length. 13

Andrew Jefford: Full green-gold. Well-defined aromas, without too much free sulphur, which suggests an almost pastry-like richness but without losing the classic regional delicacy. Intense, vivid, well-balanced, elegant: pretty orchard fruits lend poise by vivid acidity and mineral touches. 15

Jancis Robinson: Great intensity of minerals and fantastic natural acidity. Creamy texture and real interest. Bravo! Very lively and refreshing without being skinny in any way. Neat and long. Drink 2007-17. 16.5