Andrew Jefford: Full green-gold. Lemon, lime, grapefruit: a symphony of cool citrus, both pith and juice combined. The oak frames unobtrusively, providing lots of classicism and charm. Fresh, vivid, pithy. Lots of citrus here too, but surprisingly soft, sweet, and open: the aromatic profile suggested a tauter wine. Orange and tangerine, as well as lemon and lime, make for a gratifying mouthful. Not for the longest haul, but hugely enjoyable while it lasts. 15