Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, bright. Good aromas, sage and vanilla, thinner than some but not the worse for that. Intriguing fruit, quite tannic, needs more time than most. Typical of Brunello, not necessarily of this vintage. Needs a couple of years: Drink from 2016. 16

Bruno Besa: Garnet to tawny. Intense, mineral, refined, and clean nose, with small red fruits, cedarwood, and hints of coffee. Medium to full body, with sweet red fruit and a long clean finish. Elegant and restrained. 17

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Soft, enticing, just a little soupy, which you can’t often say of Brunello; perfumed tallow, too. Striking if unclassical. Slightly awkwardly constituted flavors and modest concentration. Toward the back of the peloton. 11.5