John Livingstone-Learmonth: A soft, rather plump, quasi-international aroma, reflecting pristine berry fruit with some oak smoke, maybe game: “sleek” is the word. The palate holds broad fruit, rolled-up berries with a sustained, pretty compact appeal. Easy-toned wine, verging on the delicious now—very elegant and its balance is good. Rather a modern, pristine wine with a Burgundian nature. 2023–26. **** (14.4–16.5)