John Livingstone-Learmonth: Brick color in the robe—this is the firstwine of an even number year since 2004to break ranks and show its age. Has a tea, ground coffee aroma, with some southern sweetness underneath, revealing baked fruits: very much runs along the linesof Earl Grey tea (China tea with bergamot), with the sweetness of chaptalization and some bacon fat. Has a probing, caramel, date, and little red berry flavor. There areno big skies here: it drinks well in its restricted panorama, and holds simple appeal. The red fruits are nicely present until the finish. 2015–20. *** (12.5–14)