John Livingstone-Learmonth: Purple, sleek robe; gutsy, ample bouquet—unusual with its air of black rather than red berries. The palate carries black berries with plenty of depth in the taste, then a grilled note. Has a prune-plum aftertaste. The length is good, and this ends clearly, even if there is some alcohol and heat. It does not seem tannic, but it is. For the drinker, it is a wine that revolves around the style—you either like this big rendering or you don’t want your Hermitage so “large.” 2023–26. ****** (19–20)