John Livingstone-Learmonth: Mulled red berries aroma, with lots of life in it—has grip. There are light earthy airs, as if a healthy ripeness was hard to achieve. The bouquet has an elegant shape, and is not a big boy with its clean lines. The fruit skips a beat—it may be just closing down—and conveys some wee green pepper. The palate is rich in the modern way; here is a red fruit, raspberry fest, all on its clean, primary fruit appeal. Burgundian in style—in the making and in the tasting. The finish is peppery. 2021–24. ***(*) (12.5–14/14.5–16.5)