John Livingstone-Learmonth: Dark red, with a little purple. The bouquet leads with red fruits—raspberries—with an easy, smoked appeal about them. This has some depth, but is a little narrow, with more acidity than the 2002, and ends with some floral, orange peel airs. The palate red fruit has some life in it, but is not particularly sustained nor very rich. Itgains some roundness late in the day. The length is sound, so I would give this a chance to shape itself into a gentle, textured wine around 2011–14. From late 2009. 2022–24. *** (12.5–14)