John Livingstone-Learmonth: Pretty red at the heart of the robe. The bouquet bears white pepper and sealed red fruits with definite tannic traces from this vintage. There is still plenty here, and some floral traces soften it. This is a peppery, lithe, upright wine with a brisk red fruit heart. The length is good, live, active. There is a pepper thread through it, with good underlying richness of a refined nature. Very vintage-marked. A Bordelais Hermitage; the 2001 is rounder, but has some similarity in its cut. 2023–25. ****(*) (14.5–16.5/17–18.5)