John Livingstone-Learmonth: Very good, full plum red robe. The aroma is led by mulled berries with a little “high” note in them, followed by a tinkle of pepper: very gourmand, with a touch of the earthy, farmyard in it—most pleasant pour moi. This is a texture wine—bingo! The stone red fruits are laced with spice, menthol, and coffee, and proceed with a silken flow. This is showing very well now. It also holds good late acidity in its finish. There may be a trace of Brett in this, but that does not deter me. Others can go back to the laboratory if they wish. 2022–24. ***** (17–18.5)