John Livingstone-Learmonth: Garnet tone to the robe, with red wisps at its core. Has a high, animal-game nose, though possesses a rich, ripe core. The outer aroma is putting-off, but there is a real depth here, and inside resides jamwith a little ground coffee. The palate charts a similar course to the nose—has a rather sultry, down-home flavor, but the texture is rich, round. The length is good. There is a tinkle of late tannin—just a little grip there, with some pepper. Because of its stinkiness, triple decant this, and hope. Can be drunk till 2017–20 because of its intrinsic richness. **** (14.5–16.5)