John Livingstone-Learmonth: Subdued ruby, then red. The nose is quite firm, and still complete, showing a mix of baked red fruit tart and flowers, and pursuing very well. The palate is peppery, but is now at a rounded, evolvedstage without its initial anxiety. The only moment of real vintage imprint now is an airy, pebbly finish. Has the southern red fruits restraint, a dabble of warmth latein the day that is very Rhodanien. The texture is soft, smooth, and there isa nice, clear, and slightly salty finale. Some animal-game emerges on the aftertaste, but this is a wine of great delicacy now. 2017–19. ****(*) (14.5–16.5/17–18.5)