John Livingstone-Learmonth: The bouquet is at a very harmonious, complete stage—a brewed, almost Bovril (beef stock, good for stews) style, with trails of mature raspberry late on. Reflects Hermitage correctly, has local feel, and a little floral content. The same applies for the palate—it is in the right place at the right time now. A sort of shadow of the 1991—comes in that vein—with a very appealing, deftly silken texture. Flows well, and has beautiful red fruit of great elegance. This is bonny, the fruit compact and the balance good. 2021–23. **** (14.5–16.5)