The medieval sandstone village of Gigondas has long been seen as Châteauneuf’s Dauphin, the line of succession ever clearer as the vintages become warmer, without wishing to impute senescence on the monarch. No surprises, then, that the Perrins, prescient, have had a long and highly successful relationship with the village. Of the three resulting wines, this is the flagship, well named, since both the Clos and the Tourelle are clearly visible as one climbs the hill. Old vines punctuate sandy soils, with Grenache contributing 80%, Syrah and Mourvèdre sharing the balance. The blend is aged for 18 months in foudre. Deep ruby, near obsidian at the core; a superbly precocious nose of crushed blueberry, graphite, pepper, and licorice, all unfolding on the palate. The robe of ripe yet assertive tannins is deeply impressive, the spicy flourish more than a mere afterthought. | 92