Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A little reduced initially, but wonderfully complex in its aromas with air, then a dense, focused palate, the acidity perfectly balanced with the alcohol and structure of the wine, its elegance and purity setting it in a class apart. Above all, its finish is at once more complex and more precise than that of most of its peers, making it the gold standard yet again. 17.5/18

Michael Schuster: Fine cedar, mineral, and lemon zest scent; rich, elegantly balanced, vigorous middleweight; a considerable concentration of fruit, but without any sense of excess, and firm, vital acidity; a dry, fruit and mineral- intense wine of great aromatic projection and persistence, both on the palate and on the finish, but retaining its elegant proportions. A splendid Domaine de Chevalier, which will need, and reward, considerable bottle age. 2018–35+. 18+